Mt. Lee via Brush Canyon in Griffith Park - April 10, 2014

See Mt. Lee hike description at Dan's Hiking Pages

I love hiking in Griffith Park, and spring is my favorite time. I heard in the news recently that the Hollyridge Trail trailhead to Mt. Lee would be closed for about six weeks while they construct a new gate. So I figured I’d check it out and use an alternative route to the popular summit with its iconic Hollywood sign. Brush Canyon seemed like the ideal starting point and is one of my favorite locals in the park to hike.

I leave my office in Echo Park at 3:15 and navigate the 101 to Frankin Avenue and head north on Beachwood Drive. My first stop will be to check out what’s happening at the Hollyridge Trail trailhead. Sure enough, the street is closed off at the junction of Hollyridge Drive, a block shy of the trailhead.

I turn right on Hollyridge hoping to find a place to park or a road back to Beachwood. But I end up winding through the narrow streets half way back to Frankin. Back on Beachwood I finally park near the closure. A park employee stands guard. He tells me that the other routes to Mt. Lee are open. Great! I decided to head south again on Hollyride Drive to find a shortcut east over to Brush Canyon. It’s like navigating a bowl of spaghetti. It ends up not being a shortcut but I really enjoy the amazing collection of houses crammed into every nook and cranny of the steep hillsides.

Once I reach Canyon Drive in Brush Canyon my next task is to do some investigative work. Recently John from the UK emailed me some photos from the 1950s TV show Highway Patrol and wondered if I knew where the locations were in Griffith Park. I quickly deduced they were from Brush Canyon near the Bronson Caves. So my goal now is to replicate the several shots. Even without the lenses to get the exact composition, I’m pretty pleased with the results. Now it’s time to hike.

1955 - Highway Patrol, Art Robbery

2014 - Canyon Drive, Griffith Park

I park my car in the parking lot at the head of Canyon Drive in Brush Canyon. There are only two spaces left in the small lot that holds 14 cars.

4:30 PM - Begin hike. Sunset is at 7:20 this evening so I have about two and a half hours to hike with some buffer time to spare. Pass the locked vehicle gate and begin walking north on the broad dirt road. The hillsides are greening up and leaves have returned to the sycamores. Our sunny weather has turned to gloomy skies today. It’s a little muggy.

I don’t really have a specific plan for the hike. I reckon I’ll end up on Mt. Lee and figure out the rest as I go. In all my hikes in Griffith Park over the years, I have never repeated one. I always managed to put various combinations of segments together to make each hike unique.

A few minutes up the trail I reach the check dam and have some options. I can continue up the road, but I’m inclined to achieve Hollyridge sooner. One route goes straight up the mountainside adjacent to the check dam. I’ve used it before both ways. But I am curious about the route that is about 40 yards to the north and angles up the draw. I’ve done some recon at both ends but never have tied it together. From the aerials it looks like a good route. A gal and her dog pass and head up that trail. It looks well traveled. I guess I’ll follow. Shortly the path becomes rugged and steep. The gal turned around and decided against that route. I continue out of shire curiosity. It becomes ridiculously steep and loose. This is not a trail! Thankfully I’m wearing heavy boots and am able to dig my feet into to the loose dirt as I claw my way up the precipitous mountainside. After about 10 minutes of craziness I reach the ridgeline. Wow, that was an adventure. I never get bored with Griffith Park.

I turn right (northwest) and continue up the ridge. The views toward Hollywood and beyond are shrouded with marine haze but I’m enjoying the rugged surroundings. Stop to take pics of ceanothus and wishbone bush, the most common plants in bloom today. Aside from the mustard, there is not much else in bloom.

I reach Hollyridge Trail at 5:02. A lady peacefully sits on the road’s edge soaking in the beauty of the park. It’s kind of weird to be at this location with hardly anyone around. I briefly head up the trail (wide dirt road) then veer left and take the shortcut route up the ridge. I always prefer these use paths and opt for them whenever I can. Foot traffic and erosion have worn a deep trench as the path. Up I climb with expanding views. I add wild Canterbury bells and wild cucumber to the blooming plant list. Nearing the top, I was intending to take the spur path over to Mt. Lee Drive but it’s been washed out. So I continue to the crest of Mulholland Ridge. Always love the views from here. A short descent delivers me to Mt. Lee Drive at 5:33.

Head west on the paved road and enjoy the views of the San Fernando Valley sprawling below me. With the cloud cover, it’s not warm but it’s sticky and I’ve worked up a sweat. I like not squinting into the dipping sun. There are others on the road but not many. Tree tobacco adds a yellow flower to my list along with a weedy looking thing I don’t recognize. I reflect on the good company of friends I had last June while walking along this road.

5:49 - Mt. Lee (1680’) and the Hollywood sign. I love this place. There are a couple guys on the summit and that’s it. Soon a lady arrives. In a few minutes they all leave and I’m standing on the summit of Mt. Lee all by myself in total solitude. What a rare experience this is to be alone at this place, one of the most iconic landmarks in the U.S. I decide to leave the summit via the well-worn path heading west but when it reaches the road cut it disappears into a shire vertical drop. I chuckle over trails like this in Griffith Park that dead end to nowhere. I retrace my steps and descend the normal route.

Leave Mt. Lee at 6:10 with an hour and 10 minutes till sunset and the locking of the parking lot gate. My pace now is brisk. Get a shot of the creamy while flowers of elderberry. Bugs me when people walk their dogs without a leash. Transition back to Mulholland Ridge. I figure I’ll do a loop by hiking back on Brush Canyon Trail. Along the ridge route I notice that the remote wildlife camera is no longer there. I see a rabbit but he moves too quickly and my photo is a blur. Eventually I need a good rabbit photo to add to my Animals in the San Gabriels page. The sun peeks out and lights up the Verdugo Mountains and Burbank to the north.

I transverse the south flank of Mt. Chapel and enjoy views into the heart of Brush Canyon. As I approach Mt. Hollywood Drive I look for my shortcut which I first used climbing Mt. Chapel one year ago. I find the junction and turn south on the use path that descends a ravine south. I really like this trail, which is a good shortcut. There is a small wildlife camera attached to a tree trunk.

I arrive at Mulholland Trail near the junction with Brush Canyon Trail at 6:46. I have a half hour to cover the mile back to the trailhead. My pace is earnest but comfortable as I descend the wide dirt road. I reflect on the various adventures I’ve had in this canyon. There are still some routes I have yet to explore, so I contemplate return visits. I’m enjoying the beauty of this rugged canyon as dusk approaches.

7:14 - Finish hike…6 minutes before sunset. It’s 70 degrees. There are still 7 other cars in the parking lot. I wonder what happens if they get locked in. I drive out through the park gate at 7:18. A park vehicle passes me on the way in.

Epilog - Another thoroughly enjoyable and rewarding hike in Griffith Park. Every hike offers a new adventure, a different experience. And to be at atop Mt. Lee and the Hollywood sign with virtual solitude was a real treat. What a gift this park is to Angelinos.

• See Hiking Griffith Park at Dan's Hiking Pages (including links to other blog posts for hiking in Griffith Park)
• See Mt. Lee hike description at Dan's Hiking Pages
• See Brush Canyon hike description at Dan's Hiking Pages

Western Cyn to Mt. Hollywood & Bell in Griffith - Sept. 12, 2013

In the six years I’ve been hiking in Griffith Park, I’ve not repeated a hike. With the vast web of trails, I’ve been able to cobble together various trail sections and destinations to create a different hike each time. My first and only time to hike up Western Canyon was on May 14, 2010 to the observatory to celebrate its 75th anniversary. So today’s hike will be a first for me as I hike from Western Canyon all the way to Mt. Hollywood and beyond. The convergence of having the car for an early morning meeting at work, decent temperatures, and an itch to hike in Griffith Park occasioned this outing.

I leave my office in Echo Park at 3:17, jump on the 101 Freeway, and head north. I exit Hollywood Blvd. and navigate my way to Fern Dell Drive off Los Feliz Blvd. I decide to park in the residential area adjacent to the park so that if my timing is off, I won’t have to worry about hurrying back to my car to avoid the consequences of the park’s “no-parking after sunset” rule (today sunset is 7:03). It’s 86 degrees.

3:45 PM - Begin hike from trailhead across from The Trails Cafe on Fern Dell Drive. Cross a couple bridges and walk north through the Ferndell picnic area. I love the mature sycamores and their shade. Soon I reach a confluence of trails at the bend of Western Canyon Drive (across from the large parking lot). I stay right and continue north on Western Canyon East Trail. The sun is warm as I leave the shady canopy. Mt. Hollywood stands majestically at the north end of the canyon. There is virtually nothing in bloom and vegetation is parched…a huge difference from the lush greenness and life of spring. I always wonder why the early guardians of the park felt compelled to carve all these wide dirt roads though this rugged natural space.

Soon I reach the junction where the west route joins and I continue up. I eyeball narrow use paths and ponder future exploration. Over my shoulder the Pacific Ocean and Catalina Island begin to reveal themselves through the Canyon’s v-shaped month to the south. My road bends east and south as it makes its final ascent to Western Canyon Road. Just before the road, I veer right to visit the splendid lookout terrace. Its strategic location is ideal for spending a few minutes scanning the opposite canyon slopes and examining the use paths dropping into the canyon from the west ridge. One of these shall be my return route.

4:30 - Leave the lookout terrace and walk the couple hundred yards to Western Canyon Road. I cross the paved road to continue up the trail. Within a couple minutes the Hollywood sign on Mt. Lee to the west comes into view. A few more minutes brings me to Charlie Turner Trail where it crosses the Vermont Tunnel. Views to the east and southeast open up. I pick out a few landmarks, including my office building in Echo Park. A ribbon of bluish-gray haze defines the distant horizon.

I cross the bridge and veer right, departing from the wide dirt road, and begin to climb the narrow path up the south slope of Mt. Hollywood. I always prefer this route over the wide dirt road. The climb is steep and the sun is warm. I love the amazing views of the rugged parkland and sprawling metropolis. And in spite plenty of foot traffic in the park today, it’s easy to feel a degree of solitude and escape.

Arrive at junction of Vermont Canyon Trail coming up from Bird Sanctuary to the east. Choose to take the path straight up the ridge rather than baring left on the gentler route. It’s steep but I’m enjoying the workout. Six minutes more delivers me to the five-point junction south of Mt. Hollywood. I have three choices to get me to Mt. Hollywood, but I’m a hiker so I choose the middle one and continue up the steep ridge. This is the good life. The summit looms above.

5:07 - Mt. Hollywood (1625”). I love this peak. What an amazing panorama! Always people here. Visibility is pretty clear today. I chat with a young man and woman and point out various landmarks. I notice several small trees have been planted along the south edge of the summit. As these grow it will decimate the view. Gotta get that fixed!

5:35 - Leave the summit and head north. Pass the four-point junction and walk along the ridgeline toward the “Bells”—Baby Bell and Mt. Bell. I enjoy great views east while the view west is hazed by the late afternoon sun. I veer left on the use path and decide to skirt Baby Bell for this trip. I spot the old control tower for the long-gone Grand Central Air Terminal in Glendale and think about the early days of aviation in So Cal (see my Beacon Hill Hike description for more). I arrive at the saddle east of Mt. Bell and three minutes gets me to the summit.

5:52 - Mt. Bell (1582’). I love this peak too. I’ve climbed this summit more times than any other peak in Griffith Park, probably because of its central location. And I’ve encountered another person up here only once. Great panorama to the north and east. I take particular interest in photographing the Verdugo Mountains where I was two weeks ago. Zoomed in on Mt. Hollywood, there are 12 people there now, with one hanging upside down.

6:02 - Leave summit and head west I’ve got one hour till sunset. A five-minute scramble delivers me to the road about 70 yards from the saddle west of Mt. Bell. I continue down, take a shape left, and arrive at paved Mt. Hollywood Drive. My original plan was to descend via Brush Canyon Trail, climb the ridge past Bronson Caves and drop down into Western Canyon. But I’m running out of daylight so I proceed down the paved road. The golden hour provides wonderful warm light for pictures. With great interest, I gaze down into Brush Canyon since I recently spent many hours completing my Brush Canyon hike description. I spot some routes worthy of exploration.

6:42 – Reach the ridge that separates Brush Canyon and Western Canyon. Across the canyon Griffith Observatory basks in the glow of the setting sun. I turn right (southwest) on the dirt road that follows the ridge town to water tank 116. In a couple minutes I turn left onto a spur ridge to check it out. A use patch heads down into Western Canyon which I had considered as an option, but ruled it out for this hike. Back at the ridge road I continue down. I arrive at the water tank to watch the sun set behind the western hills.

Now time to descend a ridge. I first I have to climb a steep knob which I hadn’t ascertained from the aerial photo. Shortly beyond the knob the path drops precipitously down a rock face. This is my route!!?? Eeeek! I take a big breath of courage and begin to carefully pick my way down using feet, both hands, and butt. After a tense few minutes I safely reach a saddle. I spot a group of several others climbing down behind me. I turn left and take a brushy path 100 yards to Western Canyon Road. Feels good to have my feet on solid pavement. My plan had been to descend another use path from this road down to the canyon bottom, but as darkness settles in, I opt to head down the paved road instead. After a few minutes down the road, a path heads down the slope. It looks doable. I take it. Four minutes delivers me safely again at Western Canyon Road at the bend where the parking lot is. My pace is relaxed now as I stroll through the picnic area under the sycamores. It’s dark now and there is a peacefulness here.

7:37 - Trailhead. That was fun! There are several cars still here and I wonder about the timing of officials in enforcing the “closed-at-sunset” ordinance. I know that they do ticket and tow, so I wouldn’t gamble leaving my car here into the dark. I stroll back to my waiting car parked safely out of the park zone.

Epilog - What an enjoyable outing in my beloved Griffith Park! I love exploring new routes. I’m learning to never underestimate the park trails and that being diligent to plan off-trail routes is a good thing. And I love to experience day turn to night and to watch the human sprawl turn to a sea of twinkling lights.


  See Hiking Griffith Park at Dan's Hiking Pages
  (includes links to my other blog posts for hiking in Griffith Park)

Related Hikes in Griffith Park:

• Ferndell to Griffith Observatory hike description at Dan's Hiking Pages (including trail map and directions to trailhead)
•  Griffith Observatory 75th - May 14, 2010 - Hike from Ferndell and Western Canyon - Photo album with 45 photos with captions

NEXT > Mt. Hollywood and Mt. Bell via Griffith Observatory - Sept. 19, 2013
PREVIOUS > Mt. Lee Hike in Griffith Peak - June 25, 2013

Chapel, Lee, Cahuenga via Brush in Griffith Park - April 18, 2013

I guess the Griffith Park hiking bug bit me. I really enjoyed my hike last week, yet was disappointed by the hazy visibility. So with the availability of the car, and beautiful, clear skies, I had to go back. And I decided to hit Brush Canyon again. Last week I headed to the peaks on the east: Mt. Hollywood, Baby Bell, and Mt. Bell. So this time I decided to hit the peaks to the west: Mt. Chapel, Mt. Lee, and Cahuenga Peak. And in keeping with my practice, this is not a route I’ve combined together before.

I leave my office in Echo Park and navigate the 101 to Frankin Avenue and head north on Bronson Avenue and Canyon Drive. Like last week, there is only one space left in the small parking lot that holds 14 cars.

3:15 PM - Begin hike (50 minutes earlier than last week). Pass the locked vehicle gate and begin walking north on the broad road. Soon I am stopped briefly by a small video crew shooting on the road in the shade of a majestic oak. I’m alert to things I missed last week. It’s much warmer today. As I pass the dam on the right, I plan to scout out a use path that heads northwest to the ridge. From the aerials, it appears that it might be a better route to access the west ridge than the steep path I came down last week, directly across from the dam. I stroll up the path a short distance but the route seems to deteriorate. I’ll have to check it out sometime (maybe on my return trip). Back on the road, I continue up canyon. There is a fair amount of foot traffic today.

As the trail begins climbing the canyon’s east slope, the city below begins to emerge over my shoulder though the narrow canyon mouth. I’m a particularly keeping an eye on the canyon bottom and dense forest and the possibility of exploration in the further.

At about a half hour (0.8 mile), I pass the junction where the use path heads east up the ravine to the huge outcropping, the route I hiked last week. I continue along the road as it begins to contour west. I really enjoy the good visibility and the splendid scenery. I’ve not been concerned about capturing the plants in bloom. I reach an outward bend and am rewarded with a great view south into the canyon and beyond.

4:00 - Junction with Mulholland Trail. Now it’s time for a new route. From the aerials I noticed a route the seems pretty clear from this location up to the east ridge trail to Mt. Chapel. The path starts about 75 yards west from the junction of Mulholland Trail. I am pleasantly surprised how nice the route is. It’s a little brushy and steep in places, but not bad at all. In just six minutes I successful arrive at the trail junction, about 100 yards west of Mt. Hollywood Drive. That’s a good short-cut providing a more direct route to Mt. Chapel from Brush Canyon. I like it! I turn left (west) and begin to climb the ridge toward Mt. Chapel. Last week it was nearly sunset as I walked this trail, but today I have lots of sun and great visibility. In a few minutes I reach a split. To the left is the route I took last week that traverses the south flank of Mt. Chapel. I stay straight and head to the top. Soon it gets really steep and requires all fours. I’ve been down this route a couple times, but this is my first time up it. It’s a great climber’s path.

4:24 - Mt. Chapel (1614’). Wow, I love this peak! The views are so good today. Mt. Lee and Cahuenga Peak dominate the west. Mt. Bell, Baby Bell, and Mt. Hollywood dominate the east. The San Fernando Valley spreads out to the north. Beyond the expansive parklands to the south, downtown L.A., Hollywood, and a vast human sprawl lies before me. I can see all the way out to Catalina Island. The breeze is cool on my sweaty body. Others arrive at the summit and continue on their way. A father and son—David and Benjamin from Iowa—reach the top. I give them directions to Mt. Lee and point out some of the surrounding landmarks.

I leave Mt. Chapel at 5:03 and head down the southwest ridge. This is a good route but a couple steep, rocky sections require vigilance. Another hiker passes me on this way to the top. I think this is the busiest I’ve experienced it on Mt. Chapel. Typically I have it all to myself. In twelve minutes I reach the junction with the trail coming from the east across the south flank of Chapel. Now I’m retracing my steps from last week as I stroll along Mulholland Ridge with great views to the north and south. I’m enjoy and sun and excellent visibility. I pass the junction of the ridge route I took last week in my hurried decent to beat sunset. Another 100 yards delivers me to Mt. Lee Road at 5:25.

The road has been recently repaved. There are a lot others enjoying the walk. Dave and Benjamin pass me heading down. It’s warm now as the road slices along the north side of the mountain which blocks the refreshing breeze. I reach the hairpin turn at 5:38 and get my first look at the monument that was dedicated on March 22, 2012. The bronze plaque celebrates the decade-long effort to purchase Cahuenga Peak to protect the land from development and add it to Griffith Park.

5:42 - Mt. Lee (1680’). Wow, this is always a treat. Below me stands the iconic HOLLYWOOD sign and looking better than ever after its new paint job last year. I snap some pictures then climb to the very top for more scenery. Hiking here on a clear day is so much better than when haze chokes the visibility. There are others coming and going. I don’t linger because I decide I still have time to hit Cahuenga Peak. Leave peak at 5:56.

I retrace my steps back to the new Cahuenga Peak monument and head west on the narrow trail. In the photos for the dedication event, there is a nice sign for Aileen Getty Ridge Trail, but now the sign is gone. I follow the rustic path as it traverses the undulating ridgeline. There are places where Aileen needs to do some maintenance on her trail. As I cross the saddle, Cahuenga Peak stands as a towering mass before me. The route gets steep requiring hands and feet in some spots. Soon I pass to the north side of the mountain and enjoy some richer vegetation for the final pitch to the summit.

6:14 - Cahuenga Peak (1820’). This peak dwarfs all else on the east end of the Santa Monicas. I wander around the summit to experience the sweeping views of the massive human sprawl. The rugged solitude of this lofty perch creates a sense of transcendence while the subtle din is an ever-present reminder of the vast metropolis that surrounds. I could spend a long time up here, but the dipping sun and the threat of a locked gate compel me down.

I leave the summit at 6:25 and retrace my step east on Aileen Getty Ridge Trail. The warm light of the setting sun invites photography. Reach Mt. Lee Road at 5:43 and continue down. At the junction with Mulholland Ridge Trail (6:53), I continue south down the road rather than taking the ridge route I descended last week. I figure it would give me a chance to compare times. At 6:59 I transition unto Mulholland Trail heading east and at 7:07 turn hard right onto Hollyridge Trail. At 7:11 I reach the ridge route junction coming straight down from Mulholland Ridge. It took 18 minutes coming down the road. Last week it took 11 minutes coming down the ridge. So that shortcut saves 7 minutes.

I walk past Sunset Ranch stables and in a few minutes veer left unto the ridge to drop me back down into Brush Canyon. Shortly I decide to take the path that appears to be the upper end of the route I explored at the beginning of the hike. But quickly the route becomes steep and precarious with no sign of a clear route down. I abort that effort. It’s too close to sunset and a locked gate to be thrashing through brush on a steep mountainside. Back on the ridge, I continue down the beaten path. When I get to the junction last week’s return route, I decide to skip it and continue south down the ridge. Soon it gets steeper and just short of the campground, it bends east and drops steeply into the canyon, reaching the road at the location of the fenced utility bunker. Another minute delivers me to my car.

View Brush Canyon Trail Map

7:34 - End hike. It’s now 7 minutes past sunset, so I hope that they don’t lock the gate promptly at sunset. My car is the only one left in the lot. I jump into the car and race to the gate. I’m elated to find it still open.

Epilog - Another enjoyable adventure in my beloved Griffith Park! Warm sun, cool breeze, excellent visibility, pleasing scenery, three peaks, wildflowers, new routes, good exercise—what a splendid hike!

 See Hiking Griffith Park at Dan's Hiking Pages
 (includes links to my other blog posts for hiking in Griffith Park)

Brush Canyon to Mt. Bell hike description at Dan's Hiking Pages
(Detailed trail guide with options to Mt. Hollywood, Mt. Chapel, Mt. Lee, and Bronson Caves)

 See blog post: Chapel, Bell, Hollywood, and Bronson in Griffith Park - February 24, 2012 (via Hollyridge Trail trailhead)

NEXT > Griffith Park Hike: The Los Angeles Zoo - May 19, 2019
PREVIOUS > Mt. Hollywood and Mt. Bell - April 12, 2013