Saturday, August 23, 2014

Waterman Mountain Hike - August 23, 2014

View east from the outcropping lookout point south of Waterman Mountain’s 8034-foot summit. Dominic
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The sprawling mass of 8,000-foot Waterman Mountain dominates the San Gabriels middle high country. The scenery is simply magnificent. The forest is rich and mature. The quintessential footpath offers one of the best hikes in the Angeles National Forest. The promises of this grand mountain must have been quite alluring to me—it was the first big summit in the San Gabriels I climbed after buying John Robinson’s Trails of the Angeles. But that ascent was 13 years ago so it’s time for a revisit.

Hikemasters group ready to hike Waterman Trail
When I got word that my friend Ray and his Hikemasters hiking group had scheduled a hike to Waterman, I was compelled to join them. I enjoyed my hike with them to Kratka Ridge in June, so a hike to Waterman provides an opportunity to return to the area. We rendezvous at 7 a.m. on Saturday morning at the Highway 2 meeting location in La Canada. After driving about 34 miles up Angeles Crest Highway we arrive at the trailhead at highway marker 58.00, just shy of the Buckhorn Day Use Area.

View northeast from Mt. Waterman Trail
8:15 a.m. - Begin hike. The weather is beautiful. After briefly paralleling the highway, the narrow footpath crosses a dirt road and heads south. The 11 of us snake our way up the mountain through a splendid forest of Jeffery and sugar pine, white fir, and incense cedar. This is a superb trail. There is a real feeling of wilderness here. Striking views open up to the northwest. I snap a shot of California fuchsia California fuchsia in bloom on Mt. Waterman Trail not realizing it would be the only blooming plant I’d notice all day.

View south into San Gabriel Wilderness from the ridge en route to Waterman Mountain
Thirty minutes delivers us to the ridgeline trail junction with our first views south into the rugged San Gabriel Wilderness. After a 10-minute break we continue west up the trail, which stays north of the ridgeline. I’m loving the fresh air and beautiful scenery. We are afforded views south a couple times before the trail begins several long switchbacks.

On Mt. Waterman Trail heading to the summit
9:37 - Junction. I am the last to arrive along with Lisa, whose nickname is Ketchup. There used to be a trail sign here but now it’s gone. The last time I was here was July 2007 with the San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders on a two-day project to remove deadfalls on Twin Peaks Saddle Trail between here and Three Points…so we continued west on the trail. Today we’ll turn right (northeast). After another 10-minute break we continue our accent. The handsome forest is delightful. The trail circles around highpoint 7910 and I ponder if it would make a nice side jaunt. Across the small canyon north I see the upper terminus of ski lift 3. Boulders near the summit of Waterman come into view west.

Broad saddle along the ridge en route to Waterman Mountain
A broad saddle greets us beyond highpoint 7910. In granite boulders, Ray shows us some mortar holes created by the indigenous Shoshonean peoples of centuries past. Looking at Native America mortar holes en route to Waterman Mountain Immediately beyond is a trail split. To the left is a direct route to the summit. We take the route on the right which takes us in about 7 minutes to a junction at the north side of the summit. There used to be a sign here but now it’s just a post. The topography is gentle and accented with large boulders and stately pines. The wide path straight ahead leads to a tangle of roads and ski runs. We turn left (south) and begin our easy accent to the summit. As we near the broad ridge we veer left. I’m looking for Giant’s Head Rock, which Ray says is along this stretch. I miss it so Ray points it out. I guess I can see a face formed in the huge granite boulder gazing into the southern sky with squinting eyes. Giant Head Rock near the summit of Waterman Mountain

Looking east from Waterman Mountain summit (8036’). The survey marker is on top of this boulder.
10:25 - Waterman Mountain (8036’). Jumbles of boulders are scattered around the whole area and it’s not readily clear where the actual high point is. I look around briefly while we wait for everyone to arrive. I recognize the rock where I sat 13 years ago and had my picture taken. Dan Simpson on top of Waterman Mountain summit (8036’), August 25, 2001 The views here are not stellar because of the trees. The plan is to hike down to the lookout point to the south. So down we climb. Descending south from Waterman Mountain summit to the outcropping lookout point It’s about 100 yards and 100 vertical feet to a gentle saddle then a stone’s throw to the outcropping. We scramble up the huge boulder pile. Climbing the outcropping lookout point south of Waterman Mountain summit

View southwest from the outcropping lookout point south of Waterman Mountain summit
The views are fantastic. This is indeed the place to enjoy Waterman Mountain. I join Dominic in climbing to a small flat spot on a large boulder. Wow! This is the sweet spot...unobscured 360-degree view. Twin Peaks dominates the southern horizon. Waterman dominates the north. To the east, Islip and Hawkins ridges stir found memories of some great adventures. To the west is a striking picture of the 2009 Station Fire’s massive devastation. What used to be a blanket of deep green topography is now thousands of acres of tan bareness. Beyond the mountains, thick haze obscures the human sprawl.

View north at the group on top of the outcropping lookout point south of Waterman Mountain summit - Weiwei, Sammy, Rita, Howard, Dan, Dominic. Photo by James
Everyone seems to be enjoying themselves. The group starts to head back at about 11:00. I could easily stay here an hour. I linger for a little longer to savor this amazing location. I head back up the slope to join the others on Waterman’s summit. I climb up on the rock where I sat 13 years ago and have Rita snap my picture. And while here I discover that this is where the survey benchmark is Survey marker on top of Waterman Mountain summit (8036). A party of several hikers are there enjoying themselves.

Heading east leaving Waterman Mountain summit
11:17 - My group leaves the peak so I scrabble off the rock to catch up with them. They head east on the short-cut route that we skipped earlier. I follow but can’t seem to catch up while taking pictures and chatting with hikers coming up the trail. There are some splendid rock formations. Granite outcropping along the ridge east of Waterman Mountain summit I wish I had some more time for exploring. This route is more of a use path and is much steeper than the circuitous route we took coming, but it’s good and the most direct route to the summit. Seven minutes delivers me to the trail junction. I see no trace of my friends ahead. I pass through the broad saddle and as the trail veers northeast to skirt highpoint 7910’, I’m tempted to climb it. It’s a gentle summit and I could probably descend the other side to rejoin the trail. What they hey, I’m going for it.

It’s a short climb to the first hip but the highpoint is further. Another couple minutes get me to what I think is the highpoint, but there is another outcropping a little further. En route there is a county survey marker dated 1954. Survey marker near high point 7910 east of Waterman Mountain summit

View east from high point 7910 east of Waterman Mountain summit
11:42 – Summit 7910’. A pile of boulders marks the spot. The views are obscured by trees. I’d like to linger but two minutes is all this peak will get from me today. I leave the summit continuing west. It’s not unreasonably steep and there are no hindering obstructions. I see some hikers passing by up ahead and I’m a little surprised to reach the trail so quickly…less than three minutes and about 110 feet vertical loss. Now back on the trail I can make good time to catch up with the group.

Marcia and Lisa descending Mt. Waterman Trail
11:53 - Junction with Twin Peaks Trail. I move quickly but still am enjoying the wonderful scenery. I get to the long switchbacks and see my group down below. With some speed I catch up with Marcia and Lisa (aka “Ketchup”) at 12:02 at the saddle just below the switchbacks. Over my shoulder, the broad mass of summit 7910’ looks really high above us, but I have descended nearly 500 feet. I’m enjoying the views in a different light. To the north, Will Thrall Peak and Pallett Mt. call to me.

Face in rock on Mt. Waterman Trail
12:15 - Ridgeline trail junction. I get my last peek south and take a couple minutes to check out the upper ski lift terminus of the Buckhorn Ski and Snowboard Club. Down the trail I go. It’s such beautiful scenery. I keep my eyes open for another large rock with a face, which I’ve been told is along this stretch. I missed it on the way up. At 12:27 I’m happy to find Ray and several others lingering at the rock to make sure I didn’t miss it. It’s quite an interesting granite boulder and I can definitely see a face in it.

Buckhorn Day Use Area sign on Angeles Crest Highway, Hwy 2
We continue down trail and Ray points out another interesting rock that looks similar to a turtle or snake head. At 12:40 we cross the dirt road. I turn right on the road to check out the distance…it’s 143 steps to the gate at Hwy 2. Across the street is the entrance to Buckhorn Day Use Area. I walk up the road about 200 feet to the cars.

12:45 - End hike. The total round trip was about 6 miles with 1,400 feet in elevation gain.

Epilog - What an enjoyable and satisfying hike. I had forgotten how beautiful this area is. Great weather, blue skies, superb trail, majestic forest, wonderful scenery, commanding vistas, some adventure, and good company. I am always so thankful for the health and opportunity to recreate in these magnificent mountains. icon

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Sunday, July 20, 2014

Van Tassel Ridge Hike - July 20, 2014

View southeast from Van Tassel Ridge Trail toward Vulcan’s Azusa Rock quarry
See Fish Van Tassel Ridge Hike Description at Dan's Hiking Pages

Van Tassel Ridge gained local notoriety for its role in providing access to Fish Canyon since June 6,1998 while quarry operations restricted access through the mouth of the canyon in Azusa. The access trail climbed Van Tassel Ridge, gaining some, 1,400 feet, then dropped 1,100 feet into Fish Canyon to join the pleasant trail to the waterfall. The whole access trail has been described as a horrible way to access the canyon. But for nearly a decade Vulcan Materials, the company that owns the quarry blocking access, had been courting the public with a plan to shift the mining operation from Fish Ridge on the east to Van Tassel Ridge on the west. And one of the promises was to build a new access trail going directly through the quarry.

Old Fish Canyon trailhead on Fish Canon Road, now closed
That promise was fulfilled on June 21, 2014 when the new access trail opened to the public. The old access trail over Van Tassel Ridge would be closed…except for the section from the ridge into the canyon…it remains as an orphan. But the trail segment holds promise in providing a nice climb to Van Tassel Ridge to a location above the quarry, and entirely within the Angeles National Forest.

It’s been four years (March 27, 2010) since I’ve been on that trail segment, so I’m eager to re-hike the trail to assess its condition. And the thick marine layer today makes hiking in July bearable.

Entrance to Vulcan Materials’ Azusa Rock quarry and Fish Canyon trailhead
I arrive at the Vulcan Materials gate before the 7 a.m. opening time. Two other gentlemen arrive. They had planned to hike the old route up Van Tassel not realizing it had been closed. Gilbert and Alex share with me that they make this pilgrimage every year. On July 18, 1998, when the trail had just been built, their brother, Mario Alzona, was hiking to Fish Canyon Falls via the new access trail over the ridge. It was sunny and blistering hot. As Mario trudged the grueling steep dozer cut just shy of the national forest boundary, he suffered a heat stroke. By the time emergency responders arrived, Mario had died. So today is the annual climb for Gilbert and Alex to honor their brother.

The guard opens the parking lot gate at 7 a.m. and I drive in. At the kiosk, I chat more with Gilbert and Alex and we exchange taking photos.

View north in Fish Canyon on Fish Canyon assess trail in Vulcan Materials’ Azusa Rock quarry
7:03 AM - Begin hike. The three of us stroll along together and talk more. I narrate some of the story leading to the opening of this new access trail. This is my third time walking this trail since it opened on June 21 and I’m still trying to grasp the reality that I can walk right through the quarry any day I want! Heavy equipment stands silent and I ponder coming on a weekday to see it in operation.

 Boundary of Angeles National Forest and beginning of Fish Canyon Trail
7:20 - Bridge to the national forest. Three more hikers arrive momentarily. They had read about the new access trail in the newspaper but it said nothing about this being the worst time of the year to hike Fish Canyon. But at least it’s a gloomy today. We cross the bridge and begin up the trail. Three minutes delivers us to the trail junction just shy of the first interpretive sign. Interpretive sign on Trail in Fish Canyon at the junction of Beginning of Van Tassel Ridge Trail Gilbert and Alex proceed up the trail to Van Tassel Ridge and I follow at a slower pace. Beginning of Van Tassel Ridge Trail in Fish Canyon

View north in Fish Canyon from Van Tassel Ridge Trail in Fish Canyon
The trail wastes no time in zigzagging steeply up the west canyon wall. Dead weeds line the route. Poison oak is turning its fall red. Poison oak along Van Tassel Ridge Trail in Fish Canyon The trail is in pretty good condition aside from the unchecked brush crowding the path. I’m enjoying expanding views of the canyon and can see portions of Fish Canyon Trail far below. Virtually nothing is in bloom...a lone sunflower , some mustard, a cliff aster. Everything is so parched and dry.

View south from Van Tassel Ridge Trail toward Vulcan’s Azusa Rock quarry
Soon striking views open up to the massive quarry to the south. Several portions of the trail are badly eroded due to foot traffic on the outside edge skirting unrestrained brush. And some sections of trail are quite steep.

I’m appreciating the gloomy weather, although, I’m sweating like a pig. My t-shirt is drenched. Marine layer shrouds the ridge tops. Across the canyon I see a clear line where firefighters stopped the Madre Fire from advance up canyon on Sept. 23, 2013 (see Tribune article, which happens to cite me).

8:06 - Arrive at the flat spot. View west from flat spot on Van Tassel Ridge Trail in Fish Canyon, Angeles National Forest A Metropolitan Water District survey maker marks the location.  Metropolitan Water District survey maker on flat spot on Van Tassel Ridge Trail in Fish Canyon Menacing gnats fly around my face. I spend a few minutes here. Back on the trail I continue the climb. The ascent is relentless. A zoomed-in shot of the trailhead parking lot far below reveals at least 10 cars parked there.

View south from Van Tassel Ridge at the national forest boundary (2080’) toward the site Vulcan will be mining
8:33 – Van Tassel Ridge (2080’). The trail arrives at the ridge about 20 yards above the fence separating Vulcan and the national forest. There is a bulldozer-size gap in the fence where previously it was just a pedestrian opening. A recently-cut firebreak proceeds up the ridge. View north up Van Tassel Ridge from the national forest boundary (2080’) My guess is that the Forest Service cut it during the Madre Fire.

Alex and Gilbert Alzona on Van Tassel Ridge at the national forest boundary (2080’)
Gilbert and Alex are standing about 20 yards below the fence paying tribute to their fallen brother. I quietly wait. When they finish I walk down and join them. They are standing in the approximate location where their brother died. This will probably be the last time they are able to visit this precise spot since Vulcan will no doubt rebuild the fence to secure the quarry site. But the brothers can visit the location just above the fence and look down on the site. We enjoy good conversation.

I look south down the ridge and across the quarry site to Diamond Head and reflect on the history of this old access trail and my various hikes here. I guess my hike on that gloomy day of March 31, 2012 will be my last time on that old trail. But my sense from today’s hike is that the section of the old access trail I just climbed from Fish Canyon is certainly worth maintaining and continuing to promote as viable route to Van Tassel Ridge. And it will give the public a bird’s eye view of the mining operation from a perch totally within the national forest.

I’m keeping an eye on my watch since I should be back at the trailhead by about 9:45 to give me enough time to get to a 10:30 meeting. I had planned to hike further up the ridge but have run short of time.

View northeast from near the top Van Tassel Ridge Trail in Fish Canyon
8:57 - I say goodbye to Gilbert and Alex and start my descent. I need to move quickly but carefully since the steep path is slippery in places. I put on long sleeves so I don’t have to be as concerned with dodging poison oak and to give me a little protection if my feet slide from beneath me.

Even though I have been an outspoken critic of the poor quality of old access trail climbing over Van Tassel Ridge, I’ve always liked this section of trail. I salute those who spent hundreds of grueling hours in carving out this trail through mercilessly thick chaparral on a precipitously steep mountainside. Van Tassel Ridge Trail in Fish Canyon, Angeles National Forest According to Tom Chester, the trail was built by either the California Conservation Corp (per John Robinson, 1998) or the Los Angeles Conservation Corps (per John McKinney, 1998). This trail needs to live on.

Another zoomed-in view reveals 13 cars in the trailhead parking lot. Thankfully the gloomy weather mitigates some ill effects of hiking in Fish Canyon in its worst time of year. I hope these hikers will return in the spring when the canyon is wonderfully beautiful. On the lower section of the trail, Gilbert and Alex catch up with me and we chat more as we descend. Alex and Gilbert Alzona on Van Tassel Ridge in Fish Canyon

Fred Rice and trail maintenance volunteers on Fish Canyon Trail
9:39 - Reach Fish Canyon Trail. So it was 70 minutes up and 42 minutes down. A couple minutes down the trail we come across several volunteers led by Fred Rice of the San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders. They are informally working to remove a large jagged rock along the trail which poses some risk to hikers. We visit for a few minutes. We continue down the trail, cross the bridge, and stroll down the new access trail through Vulcan’s quarry property.

Trailhead kiosks for Vulcan Materials’ Fish Canyon Access Trail
10:04 - End hike (about 20 minutes later than I had planned). There are about a dozen cars in the lot. A party of three is getting out of their truck parked in a handicapped spot. There is a placard in the window but these folks don’t appear handicapped as they are clade in their hiking gear. I have wondered if the three nicely paved handicap parking spots (legally required) would get any use since the trail is certainly not handicap friendly. A wheel chair could perhaps go as far as the “big rock,” but after that the footpath is friendly only to able-bodied folks.

Poison oak on Van Tassel Ridge in Fish Canyon, Angeles National Forest
Epilog - I love Fish Canyon. Every experience I’ve had here over the last 17 years has been unique. The objective today to assess the condition of old access trail segment was successful and encouraging. It’s doubtful if the Forest Service will officially add that trial to their inventory, but certainly we the hiking community can adopt it and informally ensure its service to the public.

And I valued meeting Gilbert and Alex today and having the opportunity to share in honoring their brother Mario. We talked about how his death serves as a poignant reminder to respect nature and the seasons and take the necessary care in recreating in the great outdoors. icon

See Fish Van Tassel Ridge Hike Description at Dan's Hiking Pages

See Fish Canyon Falls Hike Description at Dan's Hiking Pages (including a link list for my other blog posts for Fish Canyon)

Historic Note:
You can read the original article by John McKinney in the Los Angeles Times from June 21, 1998 describing the new Fish Canyon access trail along with some history leading up to it:
Angling for Better Trail to Fish Canyon Falls


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