Mt. Williamson Hike - August 25, 2012

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What a splendid hike in the San Gabriels’ high country! Mt. Williamson has long been on my list so finally the occasion arose to conquer it. My friend Ray and his Hikemasters group had planned the hike and it worked out to join them.

At 8,214 feet, Mt. Williamson stands by itself north of the Angeles Crest Highway with commanding views over the heart of the San Gabriels and the vast Mojave Desert to the north. It lies within the Pleasant View Ridge Wilderness, which was newly established in 2009 to protect nearly 27,000 acres of pristine forest. Most of the hike travels along the Pacific Crest Trail, one of the quintessential footpaths in the San Gabriels.

We arrive at the trailhead several miles short of Islip Saddle and about 40 miles east of La Canada. Our plan is a loop hike starting on the west approach and ending on the east approach at Islip Saddle, so we staged a couple vehicles there.

8:53 - Begin hike (6700’). There are 8 of us and a dog. The weather is perfect. This section of the PCT heads north and east along the steep southwest slopes of Mt. Williamson through a mature forest. Ray likes this approach because the ascent is primarily in the morning shade. Soon views toward Mt. Williamson open up. It’s quite an impressive mass.

9:18 - Reach a jagged ridge with amazing views south into the heart of Bear Creek canyon and the rugged San Gabriel Wilderness. Cars and motorcycles whisk along the highway below. A car horn honks in the road tunnel shattering the tranquilly of the wilderness. A marine layer blankets the human sprawl beyond the mountains to the south. A series of switchbacks makes our ascent reasonable as we climb the steep mountainside. We cross huge scree slopes. The scent of staghorn lichen brings back childhood memories of building a model train set.

9:52 - Achieve Williamson’s south ridge and the junction to the summit climb. We linger for a few minutes and enjoy striking views east and south. I look across to Mt. Islip and think about standing on that summit six weeks ago and being drawn to this mountain. The PCT continues east descending toward Islip Saddle, but we turn north on the well-beaten path and are treated with views east and west. Lush green manzanita blankets the ground and sugar pine and white fir reach into the sky. A pleasant breeze feels good. For a few minutes the route is gentle until we reach the section where the climb gets serious. The path snakes up the steep ridge in a Lombard Street manner. The footing is loose. We patiently climb and in about 10 minutes we reach a splendid outcropping as the path mellows out. As we continue along the ridge, the scenery is gorgeous.

10:32 - Pleasant View Ridge. Wow, impressive view northeast to the desert. We turn right (southeast) and another minute brings us to the summit.

10:34 - Mt. Williamson (8214’), the official summit. The board, bald summit offers commanding views. We linger for a few minutes but the goal of the group is the next knob along the ridge (8244’), 0.3 mile northwest. Many consider that higher point to be the actual summit of Mt. Williamson, and indeed that’s where the summit registry is located. We backtrack a minute to the junction and continue along the ridge. There is some roller coaster action and in several spots the footing is loose and somewhat dicey. A sailplane soars by. I’m loving the beauty of this rugged high country. We make a final climb and a spur path cuts left to the reach the summit.

10:51 - Mt. Williamson (8244’), the middle summit. I walk around among the trees and rocks to admire the varying vistas. This is a superb peak. Ray serenades us on his ocarina. I flip through the peak registry and notice names of some HPSers I recognize. Mars Bonfire summited this peak for his 24th time on July 5! This is as far as our group will go today, so I decide to continue along the ridge to hit the third highpoint. Ray says to meet the group back at the junction by 12 p.m.

I leave at 11:11 and head northwest along the ridge. More of the same: Fir and sugar pine, manzanita and chinquapin, amazing scenery, craggy rock formations, blue sky, warm sun, pleasant breeze.

11:20 - Mt. Williamson (8248’), the northwest summit. The small, mostly bare summit provides great views, particularly northward toward the vast desert. From here the ridge steeply drops about 350 vertical feet to a saddle (7900’+) before climbing steeply to the next knob along the ridge (8160’+). Further northwest, Pallet Mt. and Will Thrall Peak stand as twin pyramids and call me to climb them. On the slope facing me to the northeast is debris from a plane wreck. Our ascending route can be seen to the south. Marine layer still hangs over the L.A Basin, so there is no hint of the massive human sprawl and the Pacific Ocean. I would enjoy hanging out here a lot longer, but the clock ticks. I leave the summit at 11:36.

I retrace my steps southeast along the ridge enjoying the scenery from the opposite direction. Stop to change my camera battery (after 254 pics and 7 videos). I arrive back at the middle summit (8244’) at 11:48. My friends have already left so I continue down the trail. As I hurry along I see no sign of them ahead. A lady passes me and I ask her if she saw my group and she says about half mile down the trail. That can’t be right. I arrive at the junction at 12:02, just two minutes late, and the group is not here. I continue down wondering why the group left me.

12:18 - PCT Junction. No one is here. I had really expected them to be here. I turn left (east) and begin my descent. Whenever I’m on the Pacific Crest Trail, I’m aware that this iconic path stretches all the way from Mexico to Canada. The dense blossoms of rabbit brush add a nice splash of yellow. The route descends a huge bowl with views east. Over my shoulder, the mass of Mt. Williamson looms above. The topography is breathtaking. I’m enjoying the solitude but wonder where my group is. Looking across to Mt. Islip, Throop Peak, Mt. Burnham, and Mt. Baden-Powell brings happy memories of most excellent adventures. I’ve still to conquer Mt. Lewis and Mt. Hawkins, so I’ve been eyeing them all day with hopes of hitting them this season. Soon the Islip Saddle trailhead can be seen on the highway far below.

As the trail bends southwest I’m intrigued by a pointed summit (7103’) at the bend of the highway; maybe next time I’ll hit it. A couple ladies pass me going up...the only humans I’ve encountered since the summit. The disparity in traffic distribution between marquee destinations like Baldy, Baden-Powell, and Icehouse, and less-visited peaks like Mt. Williamson is striking. And that’s fine by me; I like sitting on a superb peak all by myself! I pass a saddle offering a good view west and I begin my final southeast stretch toward the finish.

1:17 - Islip Saddle (6670’). Done. There are about 25 cars and a large bus in the parking lot. Obviously most of those hikers headed up toward Little Jimmy, Windy Gap, and Mt. Islip. I was eager as to why the group left me. Ray told me that the dog had gotten sick so they left early to get him back. Ok, I have the dog to thank for an hour and half of solitude!

Epilog - What great hike, one of the finest in the San Gabriels! Covered about 4.5 miles and 1,600 feet in elevation gain. Great weather, blue skies, pleasant breezes, magnificent topography, sweeping panoramas, mature forest, superb trail, good company, and a peak I’ve not visited before all made for a thoroughly enjoyable outing. This is definitely a destination worth repeating.

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Cooper Canyon Falls Hike - April 28, 2012

For years Cooper Canyon Falls has been on my must-hike list. Finally all the factors came together to make the long drive up Angeles Crest Highway for a splendid day of hiking in the San Gabriels high country. My friend, Ray, and his group visited the falls last weekend, and he reported that the falls were flowing well. And he gave me some tips for the hike. The forecast was for perfect weather.

As I drive up Angeles Crest Highway, I am again saddened by the horrific damage from the 2009 Station Fire. What used to be thousands of acres of majestic pine, fir, and cedar are now blackened sticks. Soon my spirit is lifted as I enter mature forest that was not burned.

My plan is to hike via Buckhorn Campground down Burkhart Trail and return via Cooper Canyon Trail to Cloudburst Summit. Since the campground is still closed for its winter hiatus, I have to park along the highway and hike through the campground to the trailhead. The Forest Service has done a great job in making the campground beautiful and ready for the camping season. Signs point the way toward Burkhart Trail. Some patches of snow linger. The sound of the creek provides a pleasant soundtrack. After a walk of about 0.8 mile I reach the trailhead to Burkhart Trail. A brand new sign announces the entrance to Pleasant View Ridge Wilderness. This will be my first time in this new wilderness, which was newly designated by Congress in 2009 and encompasses 26,752 acres.

10:26 - Begin my hike down Burkhart Trail. The trail heads north, high on the canyon wall, descending at a pleasant grade through a rich green forest. The water is far below me on the right. I’m really loving this trail. Birds are singing and the temperature is perfect. I keep my eyes open for a spur trail which Ray says leads to a small waterfall. At about 10 minutes in I find the trail and climb down to the small falls. Very nice and worth the side trip.

For me, this trail is nearly quintessential, with the only thing keeping it from perfection is the Sutter walls (wooden retaining barriers). To me they look ugly and mar the landscape. I much prefer stone retaining walls, which blend into the natural surroundings.

Soon views open up to the north toward Will Thrall Peak and Pallet Mountain. Another spur trail heads down the open slope to what appears on the map to be another waterfall far below. I’ll skip this one. A couple hikers pass me coming out and in a few more minutes more another couple. I chat with a gentlemen hiking solo. I love the beautiful scenery, from pine needles beneath to the forest-covered mountainsides, to craggy rock formations. This is certainly among the finest trails in San Gabriels. So far I’ve seen nothing in bloom except a lone wallflower in the campground.

11:18 - One mile maker. It doesn’t take a mathematician to see that my pace is quite slow. But I’m sure enjoying it! As I approach Cooper Canyon, which this canyon meets, the trail bends west and in a few minutes switches back east, a stone’s through above Cooper Canyon creek. Somewhere over there on the other bank is Cooper Canyon Trail, but I can’t see it through the trees. Majestic cedars rise into the sky. White alder and other deciduous plants are beginning to come back to life. Soon the trail drops down and crosses the tributary creek flowing from the south. I carefully pick the best place to cross to avoid getting wet. I fail and my boot gets partially baptized. In another three minutes I reach a junction.

11:45 - Junction with Cooper Canyon Trail/Pacific Crest Trail. Cooper Canyon Trail cuts hard right (west) and Burkhart Trail continues east. This trail is also part of Silver Moccasin Trail, a 53-mile route established by the Boy Scouts. In two minutes past the junction, I look down to my left and see torrents of water spilling over the rocks. Could this be the falls? Since I had seen pictures only from the front of the falls, I really didn’t know what to expect to see when I reached them.

11:52 - Cooper Canyon Falls. Most waterfalls in the San Gabriels are approached from downstream...you round a bend and come face to face with a cascade. But here, as with Hermit Falls, I’m looking down on the falls from the trail. I pull out the note from Ray and he describes two routes down; the first uses a rope to negotiate the steep canyon side, which he does not recommend. The second is a little further and approaches the falls via some boulder hopping. I ignore the route that starts at the Sutter wall, thinking it is the rope route, and take the second, about 20 feet further. I follow the path down and soon discover that this is the rope route. It doesn’t look too bad so I continue. But it gets slimy and slippery and is dicier than it appeared. Once at the bottom I gingerly cross the creek to the other side.

A wall of white water tumbles into a sparkling green pool. With the alders still leafless from the winter, the falls are in full sun. I’m the only one here and I think about the crowds at Fish Canyon Falls today. I find a comfortable spot on the smooth, marble-looking bedrock and enjoy my lunch serenaded by the roar of the falls. At about 25 feet, it’s not one of the taller falls in the San Gabriels, but the sheer mass of water is impressive. I do a little exploring.

After nearly an hour, a group of four arrives. Their descending the rope route reminds me of a scene from the Keystone Cops. I decide it’s time to go. I leave by boulder hopping downstream about 30 yards then climb up the steep rocky slope to the trail. A normal person would head back at this point, but I must explore further.

1:00 - Continue east down the trail. My primary objective is the check out the trail junction. A short walk of six minutes delivers me to the steam crossing. Trout swim in the sparking water. Across the creak, the route cuts left and climbs about 30 yards to the signed junction. Burkhart Trail continues climbing to the left (north). Rattlesnake Trail heads southeast and meanders its way to Eagles Roost Picnic Area on Angeles Crest Highway. It is also the Pacific Crest Trail and Silver Moccasin Trail. This section of trail is closed because of protecting the habitat for the Mountain Yellow-legged Frog (Rana Mucosa). There is no sign here indicating the closure (but there is one at Cloudburst Summit).

I decide to continue north on Burkhart Trial for a little more to see what I can see (kind of like the bear that went over the mountain). Feels good to be going uphill. About 10 minutes into it I achieve a crest with sweeping views of breathtaking topography. Wow, this is really worth the extra effort. Will Thrall Peak and Pallett Mountain dominate the near horizon and call me to climb them. They’ll have to wait for another day. Sheer cliffs drop steeply into the canyon of Little Rock Creek. This is splendid high country and about as pristine as anything in the San Gabriels. There are not even any Sutter walls in sight.

1:30 - Turn around and head back. I reach Cooper Canyon Falls again at 1:46. More people are here now. I take some notes and pictures and do some more exploring.

2:06 - Leave Cooper Canyon Falls heading west. At the junction I veer right, departing from Burkhart Trail (which I descended this morning) to take Cooper Canyon Trail as my return route. As I cross the creek a couple arrives with a dog off leash. It’s sad how many dog owners either don’t grasp or don’t care how many important reasons there are for restraining their animal in the wilderness (if nothing else, it’s the law, on multiple levels: county, national forest, federal wilderness).

The trail now follows the north bank of the stream and heads west. It’s warm now and I’m in the open sun more than shade. The trail is quite wide and obviously was some type of dirt road in the past. For the most part the trail stays close to the creek. I am so enjoying the mature forest of oak, alder, pine, fir, and cedar. I encounter my second flower for the day, another lone wallflower standing proudly in the warm sun.

3:00 - Cooper Canyon Trail Camp. There is a restroom (pit toilet) on this side of the creek, and a spacious campground with tables and stoves on a large clearing across the creek. I wonder about the wilderness boundaries, since under federal rules, these kinds of amenities would not be allowed in a wilderness. Later I found that there is a narrow corridor from the highway to here that is excluded from Pleasant View Ridge Wilderness. A large group of a few adults and a bunch of kids occupy the campground. They had cut a lot of live tree branches and are using them to make various pieces of rustic camp furniture and shelters...another clear violation of forest-use rules. I speak with the leader and encourage him to set a good example for the kids. As I am leaving, a group of young adults passes with two dogs off leash…again, just ignorance or disregard for law.

The trail now climbs northwest and circles a large bowl offering varied scenery of splendid high country. This climb in the warm sun is a strong reminder of why I don’t particularly like upside-down hikes. I’d much rather do the climb when I’m fresh and it’s cool, then do the downhill to end the hike. I find another flower in bloom, the delicate little Davidson’s phacelia. I achieve a ridgeline and enjoy the northern panorama.

Upon reaching a nice outcropping, I discover my reading glasses are missing! Oh man! I’m thinking I may have dropped them while changing my camera batter a quarter mile back. I retrace my steps and after 10 minutes, eureka, there sitting on a tree stump are my glasses! Yahooo! Now for some déjà vu as I rehike up the hill. Thankfully it is wonderful scenery and worth a second look.

After I pass the outcropping the trail bends southwest and traverses along the southeast flank of summit 6903’. It would be fun to climb it on another trip. The trail is wide again. Shortly I reach a saddle with views to the west and the sun dipping low in the sky. The trail now bends southeast. It’s a little disconcerting that I’m now descending...I’d rather keep climbing to my destination.

4:56 - Cross the dirt road as the trail continues to descend. I’m loving the beautiful scenery, varied topography, melodic creek, vanilla scent of Jeffrey pine, fresh air, and a splendid trail. Soon I begin to climb as the trail meanders through the forest. It’s cool now. My legs are tired. I’m thinking about the one-mile walk down the highway back to my car.

5:41 - Cloudburst Summit (7018’) at Hwy 2. I sit on the curb and remove a rock from my boot. Up the road comes Tom and Todd, two gentlemen I met earlier hiking the loop in the opposite direction. They graciously offer me a ride back to my car, and I eagerly accept.

Once back at the car I scout out the various places to park along the highway, do some exploring, play in the snow, and take some notes. At 7:00, I finally point my car west and start the long drive down Angeles Crest Highway into the setting sun.

Epilogue - What a rewarding day! Fantastic weather, fresh air, magnificent high country, splendid trails, mature forest, solitude, interesting people, and a roaring waterfall. I’m always so thankful for the health and wherewithal to enjoy these wonderful mountains.

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