Mt. Islip from Crystal Lake Hike - July 15, 2012

It’s summertime and that means hiking the San Gabriels high country. It’s been some years since I’ve hiked Islip Ridge Trail from Crystal Lake to the Big Cienega Trail junction, so that was my choice. My only reluctance was that I would not be attaining a peak. But the breathtaking scenery should be plenty rewarding.

In September 2002, the Curve Fire destroyed more than 20,000 acres of the Angeles National Forest, including much of the Crystal Lake basin. The following year I hooked up with the San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders, who had special access to the Crystal Lake area to restore trails. For eight years until 2011 when the area was finally reopened, I worked on trails with the Trailbuilders and watched the area slowly recover. The hard part was working on trails that people didn’t have access to use. So today I get to enjoy benefits of a trail that the Trailbuilders worked so hard on for years to maintain awaiting for reopening.

I arise at 5:20 a.m. and leave my home in Azusa at 6:27. After a 40-minute drive on Highway 39 up San Gabriel Canyon, I arrive at the entrance to the Crystal Lake Recreation Area. I turn right and another 1.2 miles brings me to a left turn on the lake road and then another 0.2 mile to the small parking lot. There are two cars here and another pulled in a minute after me. The sun is rising over Hawkins Ridge. The trail starts at the south end of the parking lot, but it’s not evident and there is no sign. It’s a pleasant 54 degrees.

7:15 - Begin hike (5575’). Within a minute a large wooden sign announces, “Islip Ridge Trail, built and maintained by the San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders in partnership with the U.S. Forest Service.” This portion of the trial leading up to the ridge is sometimes referred to as Wawona Cut-off.

The trail gently climbs south through what feels more like chaparral than a pine forest. There are some pine and fir still living, but many are just blackened sticks. A couple spots provide access and glimpses down to the lake. I have memories of pulling yerba santa from the trail. The trial climbs at a comfortable rate. Views of the basin open up. Far to the south Saddleback pokes through the hazy marine layer. Feels warm now in the open sun.

7:38 - Reach a spur ridge which is the farthest point south for the trail. The route turns west then north as it continues its climb through undulating terrain accented with huge boulders. A motorcycle can be heard on Hwy. 39 far below.

One of the hallmarks of the San Gabriel Mountain Trailbuilders is its expertise in building stone features like retaining walls and steps. Islip Ridge Trail is a good showcase for that handiwork. Unfortunately during 2007, while the Trailbuilders were pinned down replacing a bridge with gabion baskets in Icehouse Canyon, the Forest Service hired a trail contractor who installed a bunch of ugly, unnecessary Sutter walls along this trail, destroying its hand-built feel.

8:07 - The trail finally achieves the main backbone of Islip Ridge and the land of living trees. The panorama to the west features the rugged expanse of San Gabriel Wilderness dominated by Twin Peaks and Mount Waterman. A strong, cool breeze feels good. I’ve really been enjoying the total solitude. My pace is relaxed as I gently ascend the board ridge. The sky is deep blue and the air fresh. I love the vanilla smell of Jeffery pine. I stroll through intermittent patches of shade and open sun. The breeze is unrelenting. The trail stays mostly to the east side of the ridge as it circumvents a steep section.

8:29 - Arrive at the bench. There were four of these splendid log benches placed along the trail at strategic locations as an Eagle Scout project led by Mylan Draganov. This bench is the only one that survived the 2002 Curve Fire. It provides a nice view of the lake if you sit up tall.

8:48 - 2-mile post. Another 15 minutes delivers me to the main ridge again with more spectacular views west. I hang out here for a bit, explore and just soak in the scenery. There is hardly anything in bloom: a few occurrences of yerba santa, lupine, California fuchsia, poodle-dog bush, bush monkeyflower, mountain lilac, southern mountain woolstar, volcanic gilia, alpine sulphur-flowered buckwheat, milkweed. The trial stays mostly on the east side of the ridge but occasionally it crests with views east. I’m loving the beautiful and solitude.

9:58 - 3 mile post. It doesn’t take a mathematician to see that at near 2 hours and 45 minutes to get to here is pretty slow, but I love just sauntering along and experiencing the amazing setting...varied topographic, sweeping views, majestic trees, warm sun, cool breeze, blue sky, and serenity. As I look far to the west, San Gabriel Peak and its neighbors stand silhouetted and remind me of my splendid outing last November.

After a while the trail disappears and I have to do some route finding. It’s pretty easy since it’s just a matter of following the broad ridge up. I see a bushy gray tail disappear behind a bush. I assume it’s a squirrel, but as the creature emerges I see it’s a fox. Wow, what a treat! This is only the second or third fox I’ve seen in my years of hiking in the San Gabriels. He poses long enough for a photo.

Still off trail, I come across some scat from either deer or bighorn sheep. I saw a couple deer earlier, but I also know that bighorn sheep have been spotted in this area. I continue looking for the trail when all of a sudden a herd of Nelson bighorn sheep scatter in a flurry right in front of me! As these majestic animals frantically disperse, I’m conflicted as to where to point my camera. How do I capture it? I got several shots off and some video. There were 20 to 30 bighorns, including a bunch of young ones. What a special experience!



I proceed slowly, still in awe of what I just experienced. I’m still off trail as I climb to a high spot 7600+. The ridge drops to a broad saddle and I tangent east and find the trail again. Another 100 yards brings me to the junction.

11:09 - Big Cienega Trail junction (7580’). This was to be my destination at 3.9 miles and 2,100 feet in elevation gain. But I’m still feeling good and the sign says it’s only 0.9 miles to Mt. Islip. Oh, let’s do this. I’ve never hiked to Mt. Islip from this approach, so it will be good. I continue along the broad ridge heading north.

11:18 - 4-mile post. I came down this route last July and returned via Big Cienega Trail, so the terrain is more familiar now. Thousands of dead trees testify to the destruction of the 2002 Curve Fire. But the scenery, however, is breathtaking and even the lifeless tree trunks rising into the sky add to the beauty. My pace is still relaxed as I enjoy the solitude. In fact, it’s almost lonely here. Many millions in Los Angeles, and I’m the only one on this ridge in this magnificent high county on this gorgeous day. What a gift!!

Fractured rocks, big and small, adorn the landscape. Fresh sawdust indicates recent work to remove deadfalls from the trail. The ridge narrows and Mount Islip stands majestically in front of me. A string of motorcycles looks like tiny ants on the Angeles Crest Highway. The trail gets steeper as it curves northeast, leaving the ridge and cutting across the flank of Mt. Islip.

11:57 - Trail junction coming up from Windy Gap. I turn left (west) and in a few minutes reach the ridge where the trail switches back. I decide to go straight up the ridge. It’s steep but quite doable. I had contemplated exploring this route the last time I was here.

12:06 - Mount Islip (8250’). Humans! There are 11 of them in two parties. I don’t know why, but I always feel a little emotional when I arrive on a peak, even one I’ve climbed multiply times. There is something special about being on a mountaintop. I love this peak, and perfect weather allows a stunning panorama. The peak register has disappeared. I enjoy chatting with some of the folks. It is a pleasure to meet and chat with Luis, his wife Nina, and his sister, Tricksie, all from Azusa...practically my neighbors! Solitude is great, but sharing a mountaintop experience with others is good too. Everyone leaves and I have a few moments by myself.

Leave summit at 1:20 and head down the trail for a pleasant descent, The breeze is still strong. I reach Windy Gap (7588’) at 1:54. A man and woman are just leaving, heading down Windy Gap Trial. It’s windy here, as usual, but it’s been windy all day. There has been recent activity here in carving log benches. After a few minutes I head down Windy Gap Trail south into the Crystal Lake Basin. A little warm now. Still spectacular scenery. I am appreciating the efforts of the Trailbuilders in removing the deadfalls along this trail. I counted 19 last July. Today I encounter just one.

2:57 - South Hawkins Road. This is where I encountered the bear last July. Instead of continue on the trail, I turn right (west) toward Deer Flat. My pace is fast now as I’m eager to be done. At Dear Flat I cut through campsite 1 and find Lost Ridge Trail. It’s been a few years since I’ve worked on this trail with the Trailbuilders. It’s in decent shape but doesn’t get much traffic. I pass a young couple heading up the trail. It’s amazing to me that aside from the people at Mt. Islip summit and Windy Gap, I’ve had the entire day to myself until now. In fact, today I’ve seen more bighorn sheep than people!!

3:47 - Lake Trail junction (not marked). I turn right (southwest) and eight minutes gets me to the big parking lot above the lake. The F.S. and volunteers have done a great job of restoring the area. I climb down the rock steps to the lake and look around. A few people are here. It’s hot. The water is low and a leafy, green water plant around the edges gives the lake a swamp feel and smell. Another five minutes up the road and down to the small parking lot completes the loop.

4:15 - End hike. Wow, nine hours exactly from the start! That’s a lot of time for a 10-mile hike with 2,750 feet in elevation gain. But how thoroughly enjoyable! The car thermometer says 90 degrees, which might be a little high since the car has been sitting in the hot sun.

Epilog - What a great hike! Ideal weather, blue skies, warm sunshine, blissful solitude, remarkable animal encounters, spectacular scenery, breathtaking vistas, splendid trails...for the San Gabriels, it doesn’t get much better than this! Part of me wants to announce to the world to come and enjoy this wonderful Crystal Lake Basin. But another part of me wants to protect the solitude. I’ve definitely got to return soon!

See slide show of a Trailbuilders workday on lower Islip Ridge Trail - July 17, 2004

See Windy Gap Trail hike description at Dan's Hiking Pages

See Mt. Islip hike description at Dan's Hiking Pages

See Big Cienenga Trail hike description at Dan's Hiking Pages
 

Garcia Trail to Azusa Peak Hike - June 17, 2012

Father’s Day and the last weekend of spring is a fitting occasion for a hike. And a full schedule leaves only enough time for an early morning scrappy hike. I awake at about 6 a.m., get ready, and drive the five minutes to the trailhead for my beloved Garcia Trail.

6:37 - Begin hike. It’s a pleasant 60 degrees. The sun is shinning. A light marine haze stretches out over the valley. The climb through the mature chaparral is so familiar. There is a fair amount of foot traffic but I don’t feel crowded. I love the freshness of the morning.

There is not much in bloom...sunflower, abundant California buckwheat, morning glory, everlasting, mustard, cliff aster, fountain grass, yucca, California fuchsia, Mariposa poppy, bush monkeyflower, filaree, laurel sumac, tree tobacco, wishbone bush, honeysuckle. That list seems like a lot, but aside from the buckwheat, it really doesn’t feel like there’s much in bloom.

I reflect on Father’s Day. I think about my father, Edwin Simpson, who passed away in 2000. He was a good dad. His participation with me in Scouting no doubt helped foster in me a love for the outdoors. I think about my Heavenly Father and his love and care for me. I am aware of his very real presence even now as I stroll along in the midst of His creation.

The 1.2 miles of steady climbing brings me to the ridge. A breeze feels good. I don’t linger as I turn east and make the final climb to the summit.

7:14 - Azusa Peak (2081'). I love this place. I soak in the scenery. The human sprawl creates a din, accented occasionally by a motor cycle, airplane, or siren. Various ones come and go. A group of about a dozen arrives. I talk with one gal from Pico Rivera and she says they all work at the same place. I ask a guy what he thinks and he replies, “I need to eat less!” He is overweight and the climb up Garcia Trail is certainly a good workout. I speak with a gentleman who I encountered several times this morning. He is running and making several trips up and down. He is training for the 100-mile run from Wrightwood to JPL.

7:37 - Leave summit and head back. Slip on the steep section and land on my butt. Foot traffic has picked up. I took my camera to the shop on Saturday for repairs, so I’ve only got my iPhone camera, which doesn’t inspire a lot of picture taking. The walk down is pleasant. I reflect on my hike last week to Trail Canyon Falls and the feeling of desolation trekking through the Station Fire burn area. This morning surrounded by mature chaparral with its large evergreen shrubs and trees, I have a renewed appreciation for the rich vegetation which blankets our hillsides.

8:19 - End hike. Now to go home and spend Father’s Day with family.

Epilog - What a thoroughly pleasant outing. A hike doesn’t have to be long or new to offer rejuvenation, relaxation, and reflection.

See Garcia Trail Description on Dan's Hiking Pages
 :

Trail Canyon Falls Hike - June 9, 2012

For years Trail Canyon Falls has been on my must-hike list. Then the area was incinerated by the September 2009 Station Fire and closed to the public. But on Friday, May 25, the Forest Service finally reopened the area. I just had to check it out. The published trail guides speak of a beautiful canyon shaded by sycamores, oak, and alder, but I dialed back my expectations knowing that a fire can change all that. And a friend described his pre-fire experience of the canyon as being mostly exposed and a hike that would not make it on the rotation for his hiking group. And with the fact that the falls are only 30 feet high and somewhat hard to get to off the trail, I approached the hike with guarded expectations.

The weather forecast is for a high of 75 degrees, so I figure the exposure is manageable, particularly if I get an early start. I leave my house in Azusa at 6:10 AM and head west on the I-210 under a thick shroud of June gloom. I exit on Sunland Blvd, head north on Mt. Gleason Avenue, and turn right on Big Tujunga Canyon Road. Taking note of my odometer, I drive the final 4.8 miles to Trail Canyon Road. There is no sign and the highway mileage markers are not easily visible. I follow the dirt road north 0.4 mile to the large parking area. In spite of having four trail guides in my hand, it takes a little looking around to determine where the trail starts, and that’s one of the things that drives me to write good trail descriptions!

7:18 AM - Begin hike by passing by the yellow locked vehicle gate on the north end of the parking area. It’s a cool 54 degrees. Almost immediately the road crosses the creek but I am able to negotiate some stepping stones to cross without getting wet. John Robinson writes of “feet-wetting fords,” but I’m hoping to be late enough in the season to avoid baptizing my feet. The road bends left and passes a little green cabin. The sound of the flowing creek is pleasant. Wild flowers add a splash of color. The naked tree trunks rising from the stream bed is a poignant hint of this canyon’s beauty before the 2009 Station Fire.

I reach a junction and follow the most-traveled route left, cross the creek, and end up in a cabin’s driveway. That wasn’t good navigation! I retrace my steps back to the road and take the other route. It has less vehicle traffic because, which I will soon realize, there are no more standing cabins beyond this point. A Forest Service sign announces, “Trail Not Maintained” and marks the point at which the road begins to feel more like a trail than a road.

Although this canyon is not comparable to the beauty of Fish Canyon, Monrovia Canyon, Big Santa Anita Canyon, or Cooper Canyon, I love to hike so I am strolling along and enjoying the freshness of the morning and experiencing a place where I’ve not been. The road traverses on the east canyon wall as it tangents into a tributary canyon coming down from the northeast.

7:41 - Cross the tributary creek and switchback to climb west over a broad ridge. I stop to admire a gigantic oak tree which was burned quite badly but is still sending forth its leaves. I turn to continue but my foot decides to slip into a rut, casting me to the ground. My knee...what a bloody mess! After some self first aid (three cheers for the 10 Essentials!), I continue on, now in the sun for the first time of the day. The trail curves over a large, gentle ridge covered with colorful deerweed. As I descend north into the main canyon, I see the ruins of a cabin and tractor down the slope in the canyon below.

8:06 - Reach the end of the road. Now I’m ready to head up the creek. But wait, where’s my reading glasses?! I retrace my steps back over the broad ridge to the oak tree where I fell. Can’t find them! I’m bummed! I then rehike over the ridge and arrive at the end of the road a second time at 8:22. Almost immediately I make my first creek crossing on a makeshift bridge of four logs. What was been described in the literature as a beautiful stroll under an alder-shaded creek is now quite different with the trees having been destroyed by the fire. But a lover of nature still finds beauty. Shortly I cross the creek back to the east side, then to the west side, then to the east, and then back to the west. The water level is sufficiently low as to make it easy to cross without getting wet. I stay on the west for a little while as the canyon opens up and I emerge into the sun again. There are noisy voices coming up the trail behind me, spoiling the solitude...people who obviously belong in a bowling alley or a bar, rather than in the peaceful outdoors.

The mountainsides are covered with scruffy, low brush and not the richly textured chaparral which would normally be characteristic in these environs. An array of wildflowers, though, helps sweeten the scenery. After a couple more creek crossings I’m back on the west bank, what John Robinson describes as “a large, open bench.”

8:40 - Switchback to begin climbing the mountainside. The scenery is dramatic, howbeit, somewhat spoiled by fire. The trail is in pretty fair condition but scratchy brush and weeds menace my bare legs. After a while I realize I’m not going to escape the noisy voices, so I stop and let the five verbose women pass me. It’s quiet now. How nice! With no shade at all, this climb would be quite punishing on a hot day. Deerweed, with its delicate yellow/orange blossoms, dominates the flora. I climb the final pitch to where the trail turns sharply north. A few more minutes the trail cuts west and...

9:04 - First view of Trail Canyon Falls! Wow, there’s my destination down in the canyon up ahead. The various descriptions gave me the impression that there would be glimpses. But this is an unobstructed view of the falls 0.1 mile away. Perhaps it was partially blocked by vegetation in the pre-fire days. As I continue down the trail I don’t see any hint of a route down into the canyon, but the raucous voices of women echoing off the canyon walls is a sure sign that there is a doable way down. At about 50 yards shy of reaching the top of the falls I come to the spur trail that drops down into the canyon. For now I continue along the main trail another 50 yards to...

9:15 - Rocks above Trail Canyon Falls. This dramatic outcropping offers a striking view straight down about 40 feet to the lip of the falls and 70 feet to bottom. Wow! I don’t think I’m afraid of heights but this pinnacle makes my body tingle. The women are shrieking and laughing as they as they frolic in the cold water, just out of view from my vantage point. I decide to continue down the trail to where it meets the creek about 150 yards upstream from the falls. I wander a little further, find a nice rock by the sparkling stream, and have an enjoyable time making music on my ocarina.

I stroll back to the pinnacle above the falls then climb down the steep, slippery path on the north flank of the pinnacle to the creek. I enjoy climbing around the rocks and standing on the lip of the falls. This is a treat since most of the waterfalls in the San Gabriels don’t have easy access to the top of the falls.

I climb back up to the main trail and figure it’s time to climb down to the base of the falls. The first part of the spur path is not bad, but somewhat brushy. The path curves to the right and reaches the steep section. It’s doable but requires real care. I reach the tangled branches of a dead oak tree which complicates the descent as does poison oak that hugs the route. I gingerly negotiate the obstacle and finally arrive at streamside bench above the creek. A walk of about 100 yards brings me to a short scramble down the final slope to the base of the falls.

11:08 - Trail Canyon Falls. Wow, very nice! One author uses the word, “terrific,” but that’s a gross overstatement in my opinion. “Very nice” is more appropriate or perhaps “fine,” “charming,” or “handsome.” A stream of water slips over the rock lip and falls 30 feet to a shallow green pool. Lush ferns cling to the sheer canyon calls. I have this splendid setting all to myself. I enjoy lunch as I’m serenaded by the melodic sound of falling water.

Well, time to head back. I leave the falls at 11:41 and climb back through the oak obstacle. I meet a guy coming down. Up on the main trail I see a group of four arriving at the pinnacle above the falls. As I reach the bend I take one last look at the falls with a greater sense of familiarity. The sun is warm and bright. I stop occasionally to photograph flowers. I have the trail to myself.

As I reach the canyon bottom I encounter a group of several young families with small children under toe and on their backs. They are sweating and they’ve not yet begun to climb! I begin my creek crossings. The gentleman I met at the falls catches up with me. His name is Bill. We chat then continue down the trail together talking about hiking. The canyon looks different now in full sun. We both keep our eyes open along the section of trail where I lost my glasses but with no luck.

1:36 - End hike. It’s 78 degrees and eight cars are in the lot.

Epilog - A very satisfying outing! Of the 14 named waterfalls in the San Gabriels that are reasonably accessible and covered in the literature, I’m happy to have finally conquered the last one. Perhaps in the past, Trail Canyon may have been beautiful, but now it has kind of a desolate feel. There is still a certain beauty to it, but not the kind that will put it high on my must-return list. One of the unique distinctions of Trail Canyon Falls is that the hiker can explore below it, above, on it, behind, and around it. I’m thankful for opportunity to have experienced it.

 See Waterfalls of the San Gabriels at Dan's Hiking Pages