Mt. Islip via Big Cienega and Islip Ridge - August 8, 2015

The pointed summit of Mount Islip with its amazing 360-degree panorama over the heart of the San Gabriels is a great summertime hike. Mt. Islip is one of my favorite peaks and is always worthy of return visits. It’s been a while since I’ve climbed its lofty summit, and I’ve not done any high-country hiking yet this summer. So when I got the email from my friend Ray and his Hikemasters hiking group announcing a Mt. Islip hike, I decided to jump in. The plan is to begin on Windy Gap Trail, take Big Cienega Trail to Islip Ridge and on to the summit, then return via Windy Gap Trail. It makes a splendid loop of 7.2 miles with 2,418 feet elevation gain.

I walk the five minutes from my home in Azusa to the corning of 9th Street and Hwy 39 where Ray conveniently picks me up at 6:30 a.m. We drive north to the rendezvous point near the mouth of San Gabriel Canyon. Soon others arrive and we caravan the 24 miles to the Crystal Lake Campground and Windy Gap Trail trailhead. The 27 of us gather for the customary group photo.

8:02 a.m. - Begin hike. It’s brisk and I’m the only one in short sleeves. Within five minutes, however, I’m quite comfortable. The aromas of campfires fill the air. Majestic pines, firs, and cedars tower into the deep blue sky. A luminescent glow on Hawkins Ridge high above announces the sun’s eminent appearance. Within five minutes the sun’s rays fall upon our surrounds. I began at the front of the pack but pausing for a few photographs puts me in the middle now. I love the freshness of morning in the forest.

At 8:15 we cross the first occurrence of South Mt. Hawkins Fire Road (0.4 miles from the start). The forest thins out as we transition into area devastated by the September 2002 Curve Fire. Mt. Islip and Windy Gap comes into view high to our north. I snap pictures of the blooms that subtly grace the path: California fuchsia, leafy daisy, rabbit brush, evening primrose, and yerba santa. As several in the group take an interest in plants, I am happy do some docenting along the way. The views begin to open up to the south toward inland valleys covered with a marine layer. Lifeless tree trunks jut into the sky creating strange and eerie art pieces.

8:50 - South Mt. Hawkins Fire Road, second occurrence (1.1 miles from the start). I walk over to the berm and point out to David a huge round (slice from a tree trunk) and tell him the exciting story of how it got there 12 years ago on a San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders’ work day (Hint: The fallen tree was 100 yards up the ravine and there were cars parked along this road). We continue up the trail and within a couple minutes turn left unto Big Cienega Trail. The sign indicates 1.8 miles to Islip Ridge. I snap pictures of California buckwheat, Indian paintbrush, and Douglas nightshade in bloom. The scenery is grand. Soon we cross a stream rich with lush vegetation and blooming scarlet monkey flower, Bigelow's sneezeweed, and lemon lily. Further up the trail there are blossoms of lupine, milkweed, goldenrod, everlasting, and bush chinquapin. Huge cedars reach to the sky. Their thick bark is burnt and protected the tree from the ravaging fire.

As I soak in the beauty of the spectacular scenery, I find myself being flooded with happy emotions. I first started working on these trails 12 years ago with the San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders. It was less than one year after the curve fire incinerated 21,000 acres of our national forest. The scenery then was barren moonscape and working here was depressing. Here is an excerpt from my hike report from the Trailbuilders’ work day on August 30, 2003:

The devastation is particularly bad at the lower end of the Big Cienega Trail. Stark, blackened trees rise as toothpicks from the barren, rocky ground, which is void of any organic material. What groundcover the fire didn't consume was washed away by torrents of unrestrained water rushing down the slopes from heavy winter rain. As I graded trail tread and saw a fine footpath emerge, I couldn't help wonder who would even want to hike through this desolate moonscape, regardless of how pristine the path.

Today I feel happiness as I see the cycle of life take its course and scenery that speaks of natural beauty louder than the devastation of fire. I’m really enjoying the splendid landscape.

I begin to realize that Ed, who was appointed as the sweep, is no longer with us and I am hiking with three who are very slow, including one young lady on her first hike. We stop often as we plod our way up the mountainside. I point out our destination—Mt. Islip—high above us to the north, and they seem daunted by the challenge.

10:34 - Islip Ridge Junction (2.6 miles from the start). The sign indicates 0.9 miles to Mt. Islip. We turn right (north) and begin ascending the broad ridge. Soon views open up west into Bear Canyon and the rugged San Gabriel Wilderness dominated by Twin Peaks. I’m loving the amazing scenery, great weather, blue skies, pleasant breezes, and fulfilling memories of previous hikes here. Across the yawning basin to the east, Hawkins Ridge stands as a vivid reminder my most awesome adventure commemorating the 10-year anniversary of the Curve Fire.

Up we continue to climb. Soon Hwy. 2 and Mt. Williamson come into view to the northwest. Our path is subtle and nondescript in places. Cut tree trunks remind me of Trailbuilders’ work days. Far to the south, Saddleback pokes above the marine layer. The trail leaves the ridge and begins to traverse and zig zag up Islip’s south flank. Our pace is dreadfully slow and I wonder if the rest of the group will even be waiting for us at the summit.

11:49 - Mt. Islip Junction. To the right (east) is Little Jimmy Trail Camp (1.1) and Windy Gap. We turn left. The sign says 0.1 to Mt. Islip, which is incorrect; it is actually 0.2 mile. I’m eager to reach the summit but trudge along with the caboose group. The views are wonderful. We round the hip at 12:00. They decide to sit and rest so I leave them and head eagerly to the top.

12:01 - Mt. Islip (8250’). Our group is still here and looks like a small army on the small summit. When the group had arrived, Wei Wei found a ring box tucked into the rocks. When she opened it she found a ring and a note. The note reads:

This box contains promises unfulfilled. Love that could not keep away the sorrow. Happiness that could not stem the tide of pain. Take this if you will. I don’t want it anymore. With it I give all that it has seen. 8/8/15. [initials]

How sad.

I do my best to switch my attention from the broken relationship and begin to appreciate the fine summit. The 360-degree panorama is breathtaking. Marine layer still blankets the human sprawl to the south. I share with several standing by that the concrete footers were for the fire lookout tower which was built in 1927 and moved to South Hawkins in 1937. I point across the basin southeast to South Mt. Hawkins where the tower was burned to the ground on September 1, 2002 when the Curve Fire ravaged this forest.





I snap some pics and I try to soak in the beauty of this place as the group prepares to leave. I just got here! The group leaves at about 12:15 as I linger to capture a few more shots. The caboose group is still here too but Ed has stayed back to accompany them.

12:19 - I leave the summit with the caboose group, but I speed ahead. When I reach the hip I take a short-cut east straight down the ridge figuring I can catch the rest of the group, which I can see on the trail far below. I arrive at the trail in seven minutes and descend east on the fine path while enjoying a PB&J sandwich. Thankfully the Curve Fire was pretty much was stopped at this ridge and the mature coniferous forest (cone bearing) was spared and stands majestically on the northern slopes. My pace is earnest as I enjoy the rich forest and grand scenery. A group of six passes me on their way to the top.

The trail leaves the ridge and cuts north toward Little Jimmy. Ray is standing on the trail waiting to see how the caboose group is doing. I said they should be just a few minutes behind me and he said the rest of the group is waiting at Windy Gap. I continue down. The last time I was on this trail I was climbing it with a chainsaw crew. I look across to the northeast and admire Mount Lewis (8396’) with fond memories of climbing it with the Hikemasters group along with two other peaks on September 28, 2013.

12:52 - Windy Gap (7588’). It’s windy, of course. Our main group had decided to leave so just two gals are waiting. Other groups are here as well. Seems like there is always people here. Ray joins us and tells us to go ahead and he’s going back to check on the others. I empty the dirt from my boots (from the short-cut), we snap a few pics, and leave the gap at 1:00.

I love the magnificent scenery descending Windy Gap Trail. The Crystal Lake Basin spreads out before us. The last time I was on this trail was returning from my surreal adventure through thick smoke on the commemorating the 10-year anniversary of the Curve Fire. What an experience that was. Today is quite different and absolutely beautiful. I add to the blooming list golden yarrow, chicalote, and San Gabriel Mountains gilia (AKA volcanic gilia)—a tiny purple flower that’s easy to overlook.

It’s getting warm now. Others are heading up the trail and I wonder why folks begin a hike so late on a hot summer day. There are parts of the route that trail crews have really labored over battling the unstable debris slides. The wooden Sutter walls are no match for the huge rocks that tumble down the slopes left bare by the Curve Fire. (Be sure to thank trail volunteers if you happen to encounter them on one of their work days. Better yet, come out and help sometime. Everyone is welcome. The San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders works on the first and third Saturdays of each month and are often here in the Crystal Lake Basin during the non-snowy seasons.)

Ray catches up with us at 1:24. He had returned all the way to the summit of Mt. Islip and did not find the caboose group. They must have returned the way they came rather than continuing on loop as planned. Ray is not happy. We continue down the trail at quick pace. Finally I just let them go figuring there will be a long wait at the trailhead for the caboose group. A family with two young girls is on their way to Little Jimmy for the night. It’s great to see parents introducing their kids to hiking and camping.

1:47 - Big Cienega Trail junction. Two minutes later I cross the upper occurrence of South Hawkins Fire Road. I think about the black bear I came face to face with at this spot on July 23, 2011. That was an awesome experience. The sun is warm and the lighting is very different than when we came up this trail in the cool of the morning. I’m ready to be done. I cross the lower occurrence of the fire road at 2:11 and have 0.4 mile to go. I appreciate portions of shade from the oaks as I saunter down the rocky path into the campground.

2:25 - End hike. Ray and the two gals are here. Most of the others have left. Ray is going to wait for the caboose group so I thankfully catch a ride down with Cheryl and her niece (the group shot above is Cheryl’s). About half way down the mountain her brakes begin to have problems and we end up having to wait for AAA to come, summoned by helpful CHP officers. Ray stops on his way down and waits with us. Ed is with him but the caboose couple is still on the mountain someplace, having told Ed to go on ahead without them. Oh the drama of group hiking. The AAA truck finally arrives at 4:19 and I ride with Ray and Ed back to Azusa. BTW, this was my maiden hike with a new pair of Vasque boots and they performed superbly.

Epilog - What an enjoyable hike! I love the Crystal Lake area with its amazing scenery, towering ridges and peaks, and splendid trails. Perfect weather, blue skies, fresh air, pleasant breezes, lofty trees, graceful wildflowers, good company, hearty exercise, and great memories. I am always so appreciative of the Creator and the wherewithal to hike and enjoy his creation.

See Hike Descriptions at Dan’s Hiking Pages
(Detailed trail guides include driving directions, recommended season, map, notes, links, and photos)

• Windy Gap Trail
• Mt. Islip
• Big Cienenga Trail

Related links on Dan's Hiking Blog:

• Mt. Islip Hike via Windy Gap Trail and return via Islip Ridge and Big Cienega Trail - July 23, 2011
• Mt. Islip Hike via Islip Ridge Trail from Crystal Lake and return via Windy Gap Trail - July 15, 2012
• Hawkins Ridge Hike - loop via Windy Gap Trail - September 2-3, 2012. Photo Album - 120 images
• Curve Fire Remembered Ten Years Later on Dan's Hiking Blog - My reflections, observations, updates on the recovery, and links

Islip Ridge Trail Work with the Trailbuilders - August 17, 2013

I’ve not been out on the trail much this summer as I’ve been focused on a project at the house. So when the email came announcing this Saturday’s projects with the San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders, I decided to take a break from the house renovation and head for the high country. There is to be two crews for today. A chainsaw crew would leave early and head up to remove deadfalls above Little Jimmy Trail Camp and on Big Cienega Trail. The other crew would meet at the regular 8 a.m. time and do some tasks at Rincon and then up to Crystal Lake. I opted for the early group.

Since I live a few blocks from Hwy 39 in Azusa, I made arrangements to be picked up at the corner of Hwy 39 and Ninth Street. At 6:25 a.m. I climb into Jonathan’s big red pickup truck and we head up San Gabriel Canyon to Rincon Ranger Station to pick up equipment. We rendezvous with Fred, Brian, Bob, Alan, and George. Alan decides to drive up to Crystal Lake to work on Big Cienega Trail from the lower end. The other six of us pile into the crew cab and head up the highway. A key and permission from the Forest Service allows us to drive on the closed section of Hwy 39 to reach Hwy 2 at Islip Saddle (6670’), saving a long drive up the Angeles Crest from La Canada. A few minutes east on Hwy 2 brings us to a locked gate and forest service road leading to Little Jimmy Trail Camp. A key and permission save us a bunch of extra hiking to get to our work site.

8:15 a.m. - Arrive at Little Jimmy Trial Camp (7450’). There is only one group here today: a Boy Scout troop from Corona. I’m always amazed that such a splendid campground can be so sparely used on a fare-weather weekend. After we gear up, Fred drives the truck back to Crystal Lake as we five hit the trail.

8:35 - Leave little Jimmy on the Pacific Crest Trail heading southeast 0.3 mile to Windy Gap. It’s a beautiful day with clear skies, mild temps, pleasant breezes, and the sweet aromas of the forest. I love this high country and am thankful that the gallant fire-fighting efforts kept the 2002 Curve Fire from coming over the ridge from the Crystal Lake Basin and destroying this forest too. Majestic pine, cedar, and fir reach into the deep blue sky.

8:49 - Windy Gap (7588’). It’s windy here, as always. Jonathan and Brian admire their handiwork, having carved some fine log benches last year. I reflect on being here on September 3, 2012 on the tenth anniversary of the Curve Fire. On that day I was surrounded by thick, acrid smoke from the Williams Fire 2012, which started the day before (read about my adventure here: Hawkins Ridge Hike - September 2-3, 2012). Today, however, the air is clear and the vistas are superb. We linger about 10 minutes then proceed about 200 yards up the trail heading west to Mt. Islip to tackle our first project for the day.

9:00 - Deadfall. Our task is to remove a large white fir which was fallen across the trail. Jonathan, Brian, and Bob are certified with the U.S. Forest Service as chainsaw operators. George and I are along to help carry equipment, swamping (clearing branches and debris as the crew saws), and general trail repair. After assessing the task, the sawyers make quick work of cutting off limbs, cutting through the trunk, and clearing the trail. We complete the task in 45 minutes and proceed up the trial toward Mt. Islp.

I am thoroughly enjoying the beauty of this high country. Wildflowers grace the landscape while towering ridges rut into the sky. It’s quiet and peaceful here. I look across the vast heart of the rugged San Gabriels and familiar mountain peaks elicit memories of many adventures. The distant Los Angeles basin filling the southern panorama is muted by marine haze.

10:38 - Junction on the southern flank of Mt. Islip (8080’) To the right the trial proceeds 0.1 mile to the summit of Mt. Islip. To the left (southwest), Islip Ridge Trail descends the ridge 0.8 mile to Big Cienega Trail junction and then another 3.9 miles to Crystal Lake. We rest here for a few minutes. A party of several hikers passes by on their way to the summit. These are the only ones we’ve encountered on the trail so far. Again, I am amazed at how few people are partaking of these fine trails and specular scenery on this gorgeous Saturday. It’s a striking contrast to the many hundreds who will be swarming the trails of Mt. Baldy and Icehouse Canyon today.

Our sawyers head down Islip Ridge Trail as George and I linger for a while and enjoy good conversation and the beauty of the setting. As we descend I reflect on the great hike I had coming up this ridge a year ago July and my encounter with a herd of bighorn sheep. No sheep today…just hoof prints and scat. I look northwest toward Will Thrall Peak and Pallett Mt. and think about my plans to climb them before the season turns. I love the beauty of this breathtaking scenery. I stop occasionally and my use my McLeod (half rake/half hoe) to do light trial work.

12:10 - Big Cienega Trail junction. From here we turn northeast to follow the trail as it descends into the upper reaches of the Crystal Lake Basin. Devastation from the 2002 Curve Fire abounds. Most of the forest around us here is dominate by dead tree trunks rutting into sky and laying on the ground.

12:16 - Work site. A jumble of several large tree trunks blocks the path. The chainsaw gang has already begun work. It takes some training and experience in assessing the best plan of attack in dismantling this tangle of timber. Piece by piece we cut and clear and are able to complete the chainsaw work by 1 p.m. (the time set by the Forest Service to cease use of chainsaws). We finish muscling the remaining logs off the path then break for lunch. Fred arrives and appreciates our work.

Before

After

1:45 - Leave the site and head down the trail. Soon we reach Alan, who has done an amazing job working a substantial section of trail. We continue down the trail through varied landscape and surround by towering ridges and rugged beauty.

2:52 - Arrive at the truck that Fred parked on the South Mt. Hawkins Road. We are hot, tired, and dirty, but the satisfaction of a job well done makes it worth it. We are eager to pile into the truck and leave. Soon we rendezvous with our leader, Ben White, and others who came up later. An ice chest of cold drinks is so welcome!

Epilog - What a productive and fulfilling day! Beautiful weather, meaningful work, hearty exercise, spectacular scenery, rewarding four-mile hike, and great camaraderie swapping stories and just enjoying the companionship of good folks who love the outdoors. If you’d like to get in on the fun, come out and spend a day with the San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders. Everyone is welcome. Workdays are on the first, third, and fifth Saturdays of each month. Visit the San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders website to learn more.

• See Mt. Islip Trail description at Dan’s Hiking Pages
• See Big Cienega Trail description at Dan’s Hiking Pages
• See Windy Gap Trail description at Dan’s Hiking Pages

Windy Gap Trail Work with the Trailbuilders - Sept. 29, 2012

See Windy Gap Trail hike description at Dan’s Hiking Pages

Since June 2003, I’ve enjoyed volunteering with the San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders. This group of dedicated men and women have been building and maintaining trails since 1984. We primarily focus our efforts in the San Gabriel River District of the Angeles National Forest, with much of that in the Crystal Lake basin. The project for today is Windy Gap Trail. I hiked down the trail a month ago and it was in pretty good condition, but since then, there was a big rain storm that caused some damage.

8:00 AM - Leave from the San Gabriel Canyon Gateway Center in Azusa and head up Highway 39 to Rincon Fire Station to load the equipment. There are 25 of us today, including seven Boy Scouts from troop 90 of Newport Beach and their leaders. With equipment loaded, we continue the drive up to Chrystal Lake basin. Once at the campground, our keys allow us to pass through locked gates and to drive along South Hawkins Road through Deer Flats and arrive at the location where Windy Gap Trail crosses the road for the second time.

10:10 - After a safety meeting, we begin up the trail. Two chain saw crews take the lead since they will be going on ahead to remove deadfalls higher on the trail. The rest of group breaks into several parties and attacks various damaged areas along the route. Experienced Trailbuilders patiently provide instruction and oversight for the young scouts.

The weather is great today. Scattered high clouds mute the sun. A pleasant breeze is refreshing. My tool of choice today is a McLeod: half rake, half hoe. It was originally a firefighting tool invented in 1905 by Malcom McLeod (pronounced “McCoud”). It’s a ideal tool for spreading soil and grading trail tread.

After accomplishing some light trail clean up, I catch up with Lou, Buddy, and Alan, three veteran Trailbuilders who are working on a spot where the trail crosses a ravine and is significantly damaged. I’m always amazed to see the kind of destruction that rushing water can do. We chisel away at the dried mud mixed with rocks that is heaped on the trail on both side of the ravine. Lou leads the effort in rebuilding a rock retaining wall to support the trail crossing the narrow wash. We wrestle heavy rocks to move them into place.

12:05 - Take a break for lunch. After the break we continue on the project. We dislodge a huge rock that was perched precipitously above the trail. As we anticipated, the rock came to rest right in the middle of the trail. Three of us laying on our backs and using our legs are able to roll the rock over the edge.

1:20 - Finish the project. I continue up the trail to see what else I can help with. I pass over several sections which have been freshly restored by our crews today. It’s very easy to take for grant it a good trial. I round a bend and find the main group of our volunteers laboring on a large washout. Debris from the sheer cliffs above has obliterated the Sutter walls (wooden retaining barriers) and buried the trail. The task today is to clear a temporary route over the rubble. I lend a hand. Shortly the chain saw crews arrive from the upper trail. They removed four deadfalls today, which was everything to Windy Gap.

2:00 - End the work at the designated time. We gather our equipment and head down the trail. We’re dirty and tired. Views toward the valleys beyond are muted by haze. I think about my hike down this trial on Sept. 3 when smoke from the Williams Fire completely obscured visibility. I look west across the bowl toward Islip Ridge and Mt. Islip and reflect upon my thoroughly enjoyable hike there back in July. Along the trail I admire the work our crews have accomplished today.

2:32 - Arrive back at the vehicles. An ice chest full of cold Gatorade and bottled water is a hit. We load the tools. A group picture caps the day. Back at Rincon Fire Station we unload the tools and say our goodbye to one and all.

Epilog - A very rewarding day of hard work surrounded by breathtaking scenery. I always enjoy the camaraderie. And it’s good to have Boy Scouts join us. For the entire day, we encountered only three parties of hikers using the trail. Maybe eight years of closure due to the 2002 Curve Fire caused people to forget about Crystal Lake as a great hiking venue. I implore hikers to take a break from the crowd-infested places like Mt. Baldy and Icehouse Canyon and enjoy the grand scenery, splendid trails, and majestic peaks of the Crystal Lake basin. And if you would like to serve those who love the outdoors, come out and spend a day with the San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders. Workdays are on the first, third, and fifth Saturdays of each month. Visit the San Gabriel Mountains Trailbuilders website to learn more.

See Windy Gap Trail hike description at Dan’s Hiking Pages