Register Ridge to Harwood, Baldy & W. Baldy - Aug. 21, 2011

See Introducing Mt. Baldy and Mt. Baldy hike description at Dan's Hiking Pages

Unequivocally, this was one of my very best hike experiences in the San Gabriels. An amazing day of hiking! I’ve been hearing about the Register Ridge route for years, but its purported difficulty has had me avoiding it. But two weeks ago while hiking to Mt. Baldy, I met a man who had just hiked it that morning. So based on his first-hand report, I decided it was time to tackle the notorious Register Ridge. The route begins on Ski Hut Trail just past the sign-in register, climbs 2,600 in about 1.6 miles, and intersects Devils Backbone Trail on the south face of Mt. Harwood. My plan was to hike the ridge and continue onto Harwood. Then if I felt up to it, I could continue on to Baldy or descend via the Backbone.

I psyched myself up the whole week, read some hike descriptions, studied maps and aerials, and got my gear together. And the weather forecast was for mild temps. I arose at 5:00 Sunday morning and headed off to Manker Flats.

6:25 AM - Begin hike (6160') on Falls Road. I was here two weeks ago but this morning there is an excitement in my step. The ragged ramparts of Baldy Bowl catch the morning’s first rays of sun 3,900 feet above. I transition onto Ski Hut Trail, sign the register, round the bend and arrive at the junction for the Register Ridge route. I take 5 minutes and do some stretching exercises.

6:55 - Begin climbing Register Ridge. The well-worn path zigzags up the steep slope. The footing is loose and I’m thankful I brought a walking poll. At 7:07 I step into the sun. It’s bright. Shortly the trail gets less steep. A gentle breeze feels good. I’m loving the expanding views in all directions. Baldy Bowl in all its glory rises high above while a marine layer blankets the valleys below. I’m seeing the area from a perspective I’ve not experienced before. I love the smell of pine. Sugar pine, Jeffery pine, and white fir decorate the ridge. The path is easy to follow for the most part. At one point I find my own route scampering over some rocks. There are great views down both sides of the ridge. The climb is steep but I’m really enjoying the trail. There is a real sense of climbing a mountain. And I have it all to myself! The grand scenery is breathtaking while the micro features such as pine cones, stumps, dead branches, and delicate flowers add a unique beauty. At times the ridge gets narrow with steep drop-offs.

8:36 - Reach a high spot on the ridge which drops slightly to a small saddle. The ridge broadens out and the climb gets steeper. A huge outcropping greets me and I pass easily to its left. Scrambling up scree now. Stopping to catch my breath affords me ample time to soak in the majestic vistas. I am thoroughly enjoying an exhilarating climb. Gentle breezes and pleasant temps are so welcome.

9:29 - Arrive at a splendid outcropping which provides an ideal place to sit, rest, eat, and savor the awesome scenery. I don’t feel guilty for lingering a half hour since this setting rivals just about any peak in the San Gabriels. I call my wife, upload a photo to Facebook (technology...gotta love it!) and enjoy perfect solitude...until I hear the clicking of trekking poles. A woman and man pass me climbing to the top. Finally I leave this delightful spot at l0:05. Manzanita and gnarled pines dominate the landscape of the now-broad mountainside. Suddenly I’m caught by surprise as I see a runner moving laterally just ahead. Wow, I’m almost there!

10:12 - Arrive at Devils Backbone Trail. Maybe I was over psyched for climb, but it was not nearly as tough as I thought it would be. Perhaps the shire beauty of the route outweighed its difficulty. Or maybe 5 weeks of noteworthy conditioning helped. I’m reluctant to even mention Register Ridge for concern of increasing its traffic. But it is indeed a serious climb and its demand for experienced hikers in good hiking condition will always weed out the multitudes. Word to the wise: Don’t even consider this route unless you can handily climb Ski Hut Trail to Baldy.

10:18 - I feel great so I fix my gaze to the north and begin ascending Mt. Harwood. There is no established route--I just climb straight up the crushed-rock-covered barren mass. The scenery is breathtakingly expansive. I’m having such an enjoyable hike!

10:29 - Mt. Harwood (9552’). Wow, this is an awesome summit! The vistas are simply stunning. It’s curious to me that peaks often have their identity based on the relationship to other peaks. If Old Baldy wasn’t looming above it by 500 feet, this would certainly be one of the most popular peaks in the San Gabriels. The wind is blowing briskly and I strap on my hat. The view northwest toward Dawson Peak and Pine Mt. reinforces my desire to hike them this season. I leave the summit at 10:44 and head west toward Baldy. In 100 yards I pass a spacecraft-looking device that seems at home on this moonscape (It’s actually an EarthScope GPS monitoring station). I pass a couple outcroppings and descend to the saddle as I eyeball the steep pitch to Baldy with hikers looking like ants sprinkled along the route.

11:02 - Badly/Harwood saddle (9360’). With the solitude behind me, I now join the masses in scaling the 700 vertical feet to Baldy’s summit. The scenery is still stunning and the temps still pleasant. A stiff wind to my back at times helps propel me uphill. After 18 minutes I reach a junction where the route splits. To the right the trial is less steep as it passes through a draw. I veer left on the steeper trail with the intent to explore the rim of Baldy Bowl. I wander off the trail in several spots to view the spectacular scene. Massive scree slopes, topped by jagged rocks, drop a 1,000 feet.

11:33 - I reach a recessed area. I continue to bear left staying close to the rim. I climb a knoll and am drawn downward toward a small outcropping and then down to a large one. What an incredible vantage point as I sit perched on the very rim of Baldy Bowl. I’d love to be sitting at the ski hut and see me sitting up here! I’ve long been one who strays off the path to find interesting things, and this ranks as a real treasure. I linger, snack, soak in the beauty, and feel no need to rush off to a crowded, bald summit. At 12:02 I leave my sweet spot and head toward the peak. It’s fun creating my own route. I reach the main trail at 12:27 and take the final steps to the top.

12:29 - Mt. Baldy summit (10,064’)! It’s a great peak but I’m not as wowed today after having experienced the amazing scenery on Register Ridge, Mt. Harwood, and Baldy Bowl rim. I count 14 people here. I still feel great so decide to make it a triple crown day! I manage to accomplish what I wasn’t able to two weeks ago: I stay briefly! At 12:39 I leave the summit and head toward West Baldy. I follow the path that traverses directly down the board, gentle ridge. Wispy white clouds in the deep blue sky add beauty to the day. I reach the saddle in 10 minutes and begin the climb to my third summit for the day.

12:56 - West Baldy (9988') - I meet Cindy, Lindella, and Tony, who climbed here via the long route on Bear Flat Trail from the village. We chat and I’m amazed and inspired by their hiking exploits. There is a lot less haze today than two weeks ago when I made my first visit to this peak. Leave the summit at 1:42 and retrace my steps to Baldy.

2:02 - Mt. Baldy summit, the second time. Count 18 people. Linger for a while, have a snack, chat with few people, and enjoy the beauty of this grand, bald summit.

Leave the peak at 2:25 to begin my 3.2 mile trek to Baldy Notch. I’m glad the sun is to my back. Hikers are still coming up the trail. My pace is casual as I enjoy the scenery and take pictures. Reach the Baldy/Harwood saddle at 3:01. It’s nice to finally be on a decent trail. At 3:13 I pass the junction of Register Ridge route. I smile with satisfaction. I continue along Devils Backbone Trail. I’m surprised to run into my friend Dave Dorman, who’s coming up the trail. I chuckle because over the years we have crossed paths while hiking on 5 or 6 occasions. I guess we’re on the same wavelength in trial selection. A few minutes later I meet a young man named Drew who recognized me from my hiking website. He’s working on a personal best time up Baldy. I take a short snack break sitting on a log. I still have ice in my Gatorade...so refreshing!

4:06 - Reach the backbone section. It’s pretty short in contrast to its notoriety. I walk it in 10 minutes. Always breathtaking scenery. My pace is casual as I walk along the ski lift service road. My body is starting to feel the effects of a long day of hiking. I resist the temptation to drop down one of the ski runs, although, they do make good shortcuts.

4:51 - Baldy Notch (7800’). I’m so done. Ten bucks for a one-way ski lift ticket is a good value right now. I’ve never ridden the lift going up but I can justify going down after a long hike. I enjoy the 15-minute ride down the 1,500 vertical feet and arrive at the bottom at 5:22. Now walk the half mile back to the car.

5:40 - Done, indeed!

Epilog - What an amazing day of hiking! The weather was perfect. The Baldy high country is stunning. Connecting with other hikers, experiencing a new route, exploring Baldy Bowl rim, and hitting all three peaks was greatly rewarding. I am always eternally grateful for these wonderful mountains in my back yard and for the gift of being able to hike.

See Introducing Mt. Baldy and Mt. Baldy hike description at Dan's Hiking Pages

See Mt. Baldy Hike photo album (8-21-11)
 

Mt. Baldy Hike - August 7, 2011

See Introducing Mt. Baldy and Mt. Baldy hike descriptions at Dan's Hiking Pages

Mt. Baldy! Time for some high country hiking at its best. When I went to bed on Saturday night I had not picked out a hike for Sunday yet. But somewhere in that netherworld between sleep and consciousness, I chose Old Baldy. It’s been three years since my last ascent, so I figured it was time to pay the grand summit a visit. And I had good hikes under my feet in recent weeks, so I felt I was in condition enough.

Rising 10,064 feet into the sky, massive Mt. San Antonio stands as the crown of the San Gabriels. There are several routes ascending its lofty heights. I decided on Ski Hut Trail, my favorite approach. And if I have time and energy, I’d like to wander over to West Baldy, a summit I’ve not yet conquered.

I arise early Sunday morning, gather my stuff, and make the 40-minute drive to Manker Flats below the Mt. Baldy Ski Lifts. Dozens and dozen of cars are parked at the trailhead. My car thermometer reads 60 degrees. I reach for my sunglasses and they bust in my hand. I reach into the glove box and my other ones aren’t there. Now what? Typical of this hike, there is lots of bright sun reflecting off rock; there is no way to ascend Baldy without eye protection. So I throw the pieces of my sunglasses into my pack and figure if I can repair them with tape from my first aid kit at the ski hut, I’d continue my ascent. If not, I’d turn back and try another day.

8:00 AM - Begin hike (6160'). The walk along the paved road is a nice way to get warmed up. The canyon is still mostly in shadows. After rounding the bend I can see my destination high up San Antonio Canyon. The green ski hut looks no bigger than a Monopoly house perched on the mountainside. I pass San Antonio Falls, which is still flowing but not as showy as when fed by snow melt. Road is dirt now.

8:22 - Reach subtle junction to Mt. Baldy Bowl Trail, popularly called Ski Hut Trail. It amazes me that such a popular trail to a significant peak doesn’t even warrant a sign. I begin climbing the steep, single track footpath and at 8:27 I sign the register. My pace is deliberately slow and in low gear; I want to give my body the best opportunity to perform well today. The narrow trail bends north and cuts across the steep canyon slope. The sun is now shining on the shire walls across the canyon. Other hikers, the first of many, pass me heading up. A line of haze obscures the distant valleys to the south. My destination appears far away. I climb higher and higher. The scenery is magnificent. As I cross the stream the ski hut is imminent. Stop to photograph some Indian paint brush and Bigelow's sneezeweed.

9:58 - Sierra Club San Antonio Ski Hut. This is always a nice place to rest. I’d like to stay here some time. The views are absolutely amazing. Sitting on a splendid log bench, I go to work with surgical precision to repair my sun classes. After about 25 minutes and several feet of first aid tape, the repair is complete, howbeit, really ugly.

10:40 - Leave the ski hut, cross the stream, and begin my westward traverse along the jumble of fractured boulders at the base of Baldy Bowl. Photos can’t capture the stunning scale of my surrounds. I chat with a man and women from Orange County who are making their first ascent of Old Baldy. Reach the section of trees at 10:56 and begin climbing the canyon’s west wall. The trail degenerates into a web of use paths carving up the steep mountainside. It’s ridiculously steep. It amazes me, given the huge popularity of this route, that a real trail isn’t built here. Trees provide welcome shade. Stop to chat some more.

11:35 - Ridge (8800') - Take a planned break and have a snack. Talk with a gentleman who is a member of a search and rescue team. He has a handsome service dog getting a workout on the trail. Begin the ridge climb at 12:05. The route starts moderately but soon begins to climb like a home-sick angel. Manzanita carpets the slopes accented by tall pine and fir. The scenery is spectacular and the sky a deep blue. The air temperature is not bad but the sun is warm. My pace is turtle-slow as I chug up the crazy steep ridge. Hikers coming and going. The massive south ridge of West Baldy dominates the west skyline.

12:40 - Reach a spur trail and wander 100 feet over to the edge of Baldy Bowl. Looking over the edge makes my feet tingle. In some ways the views from here are far more breathtaking than from the summit. I get out my iPhone and am amazed I have reception. Call my wife and upload a photo to Facebook. Almost feel guilty for being so high-tech in such a ruggedly beautiful setting. Resume at 1:05. Trail mellows out briefly before starting to be crazy steep again. At 1:22 I take another side jaunt for more stunning views into the bowl. The hut is a tiny green dot far below. In another 5 minutes I pass a mini-bowl, a recessed section which would make a good campsite. The route now transitions to the broad apron skirting Baldy’s summit. I continue at a turtle’s pace meandering through patches of manzanita. My excitement builds as I inch closer to the summit.

1:57 - Mt. Baldy summit (10,064')! Wow, I’m always impressed with the grandeur of this mountain! About 30 people here. Haze rests on the 360-degree horizon. Weather is perfect. Slight breeze. I chat with the man and women from O.C.--Randy and Kathy. A seven-year-old boy is there with his father. What an accomplishment for such a little guy. My original intent was to stay briefly then hike over to West Baldy, but I linger, soaking in the extraordinary panorama. Hikers come and go. I wander around the bald summit and take pics from different perspectives. As the time approaches 3:00, I debate if I should hike to West Baldy or not. You know, it’s never going to get any easier or more convenient!


View west through north from Mt. Baldy.
West Baldy (9988') is on the left, Mt. Baden-Powell (9399') is in the middle, and Pine Mt. (9648') is on the right.

3:00 - Leave Baldy summit and head west. The trail skirts along the south side of the ridge en route to the saddle between Baldy and West Baldy. I scout the terrain looking for a way to bypass climbing Baldy’s summit on my return. I feel a little excitement as I’m on ground I’ve never covered before. At 3:12 I reach the saddle and begin my summit climb. It’s not bad. I survey the views in all directs to appreciate the varied landscape.

3:20 - West Baldy (9988') - Wow! Great views, better than Baldy in some respects. A rock cluster makes a perfect place to sit. I snack, study the map, and soak in the panorama. One of the grandest summits in the San Gabriels, and I have it all to myself! Hikers on Baldy look like ants. I stroll over to the west edge to get striking views into the East Fork San Gabriel River. The mountains to the west form a picturesque array of textured blue silhouettes in the late afternoon sun. Note to self: Spend the night up here in clear weather!


3:50 - Leave West Baldy and arrive at the saddle in 6 minutes. Along the way I’ve been eyeballing a tangent that would cut across Baldy’s south apron to descend directly to the trail. I see no establish path but an off-trail route looks quite doable. I weave through patches of manzanita and am careful not to descend too steeply so that I don’t undershoot the trail. The plan works nicely and I intersect the trail just above the mini-bowl. Minutes later I reach the mini-bowl and stroll over to the edge of Baldy Bowl for another view. Spectacular scenery! Continue down the ridge, navigating the steep, rough web of paths with care. Hardly anyone now on the trail and I’m feeling some solitude.

5:02 - Reach the ridge junction (8800'). Sit and have a snack. Leave at 5:15 and begin the steep descent east into the canyon, now mostly in shade. Cross the base of Baldy Bowl and arrive at the ski hut at 5:45. A group of hikers ask if I heard someone calling for help. I hadn’t. Soon a helicopter appears overhead and for the next 30 minutes the chopper noise provides the soundtrack for the hike. My legs are weary now and I’m ready to be done. My steps are slow. The lighting is very different. Only 11 people signed the register for the day. Arrive at road at 7:12, finally. Enjoy a casual stroll down. The setting sun creates a picturesque scene toward the valley below.

7:35 - Done. Yahooo! What an amazing 11 ½ hours. It’s 74 degrees. There’s only about 8 cars left. I’m so ready to be home in the shower.

Epilog - Spectacular day of hiking! Magnificent scenery, wonderful weather, a challenging trail, some adventure, and two grand summits. Mt. Baldy lives up to its place as the crown of the San Gabriels. And adding West Baldy to the day was an added bonus.

See Introducing Mt. Baldy and Mt. Baldy hike descriptions at Dan's Hiking Pages