Griffith Observatory to Mt. Hollywood & Baby Bell - June 22, 2016

I love it when by job intersects with hiking. This week at work I was responsible for helping facilitate meetings with leaders from around the country. Several of them enjoy hiking so it’s always on our radar to see if we can take a hike on one of the evenings. It worked out for Wednesday evening. The only one who is able to hike this time was Jeff. Griffith Park, as always, is our venue of choice, and we decide on the classic hike from the Observatory to Mt. Hollywood and beyond.

We leave the office in Echo Park at 6:21 and drive the five miles to Griffith Park. We are thankful to find a parking place on West Observatory Road just short of the Charlie Turner Trailhead. I’m pleased that a beautiful sign and map has been erected at the trailhead. Good job, parks people! Signage in Griffith Park has been horribly deficient for years. It’s labeled as Sign No. 19, so that suggests that there are more!

6:49 PM - Begin hike heading north on Mt. Hollywood Trail from the Charlie Turner Trailhead. The temperature is pleasant and haze mutes the views. There are lots of people on the trail. We stroll along and enjoy good conservation and the rugged scenery lit with the warm glow of the late afternoon sun. We cross the bridge spanning the Vermont Canyon Road tunnel and veer left following the main route. Soon I realize I neglected to turn onto the shortcut trail that climbs straight up the ridge. Oh well, I guess we’ll walk the long switchback. Views of the grand observatory open up.

As we approach the end of switchback leg, we hear wheels screeching below on Mt. Hollywood Drive. There is a strong smell of rubber. We go to the edge of the trail and notice it’s a yellow Hummer. It backs up and repeats the maneuver. We realize it’s a film shoot as we spot a camera truck. Griffith Park is used a lot for filming (and Mt. Hollywood Drive is normally closed to vehicular traffic).

At the switchback there are stone benches and a monument marker. It reads, “The Tiffany & Co. Foundation Overlook.” I’ve not been here since September 2013, so these are new to me (since I usually take the shortcut, the last time I was here was with Jeff and Loren coming back down in the dark; on that hike we hit Mt. Hollywood and Mt. Bell).

The Tiffany & Co. Foundation Overlook With visionary support from The Tiffany & Co. Foundation and contributions from people worldwide, Cahuenga Peak, the backdrop of Hollywood, is preserved for generations to come. Enjoy the view!

We switchback heading east. It’s always sad to see rocks defaced with graffiti. The parks department works hard at covering it, but one tag—painted over at least two previous cover-overs—begs to be abated. The horrific scourge of graffiti in our population centers in “modern” society is compelling evidence that humankind is not evolving. Homo sapiens are de-evolving into Neanderthals and there is seemingly nothing that science and modernity can do to stop it (perhaps a theological explanation should be considered).

We are enjoying good conversation as our view over the vast L.A. sprawl to the south expands. Above us, Mt. Hollywood is accented with tiny figures.

We reach the six-point junction south of Mt. Hollywood at 7:20. A new sign has been posted here as well: Sign No. 13. It points left and right to either main route to Mt. Hollywood at .4 mi (to the left through Captain’s Roost [.1 mi.], and to the right through Dante’s View [.2 mi.]). And it points left (west), back to where we came up (.7 mi to Berlin Forest; 1 mi. to the Griffith Observatory). What the sign doesn’t mention is the two routes heading south down the ridge (the shortcut to the bridge and to Bird Sanctuary, although one is shown on the new map). And it doesn’t show the steep route that heads directly up the ridge to Mt. Hollywood. The small print at the bottom of the sign reads, “You are in an urban wilderness. For you safety and to protect the habitat, please stay on designated trails.” I guess that means they would prefer we don’t use the popular shortcut. We’ll, that’s going to be our route, so sorry, sign.

We turn north and begin to climb the well-worn path straight up. A guy is playing with a remote control car. Lots of California buckwheat is in bloom, about the only thing I’ve seen blooming today. The route is really steep, but always a fun way to go.

7:34 - Mt. Hollywood (1625’). I love this place. There are always people here; 13 right now. The massive human sprawl to the south is muted by haze. The grand observatory sits impressively on the mountain below. The soon-setting sun silhouettes Mt. Lee and the Hollywood sign to the west. To the northeast the majestic San Gabriels span the horizon with their sun-draped peaks. To the north Baby Bell calls to us. We linger for a few minutes and soak in the splendid location.

We leave the summit at 7:45 and head northeast on the wide dirt road. I’m hoping to get sunset shots from Baby Bell. That is about as far as we’ll get today. At the Captain’s Roost junction another new sign has been erected: Sign No. 11. And at the four-point junction north of Mt. Hollywood is new Sign No. 10. These are nice! The sun is nearing its disappearing point behind the peaks to the west. We continue straight along the ridge-divide and head north toward the Bells. The sun casts a warm glow over Glendale to our northeast. We’ve lost the sun behind Mt. Chapel but I’m calculating we’ll see it again once on top of Baby Bell. Our pace is deliberate now. We transition left unto the rutted path that skirts Baby Bell, then turn left to follow the ridge to the summit.

8:01 - Baby Bell (1570’). We’re just in time to photograph the setting sun as it dips below the distant horizon to the right of Mt. Chapel. There are two guys here and they snap our picture. Sometime I’d like to learn the story behind the hexagon-shaped foundation. This is Jeff’s first time on this peaklet (on our hike in September 2013 with Loren, we skirted Baby Bell so that we could have enough time to peak out at Mt. Bell with adequate light). We enjoy our 360-degree view over the rugged parkland and the vast megalopolis beyond. There is peacefulness as night falls on L.A. Looking north to the site of the long-gone Grand Central Airport in Glendale, and looking northeast to the zoo parking lot and the former of site of the Griffith Aviation Park, I share a little history with Jeff. Such aviation luminaries as Martin, Boeing, and Douglas had their roots here (see my Beacon Hill hike description for more).

We leave the summit at 8:13 and head down the northwest ridge route. At the dirt road we turn right and traverse along the north flank of Baby Bell. At the site of the short-lived Griffith Park Teahouse, I reminisce about its clandestine appearance on June 30, 2015. We continue around the peaklet then retrace our steps along the ridge-divide heading south. Lights twinkle in Glendale. Nightfall displays its beauty. I’m really enjoying Jeff’s enthralling story about a recent adventure he had on the Appalachian Trail…oh the lessons we learn while hiking!

At the four-point junction north of Mt. Hollywood (Sign No. 10), we opt to turn left (east). At Dante’s View there’s another new sign (Hogback Trail at Dante’s View, Sign No. 12). I encourage Jeff to drink from the fountain. He declines by saying he has water. I tell him he has to drink from the drinking fountain…because it’s here, and L.A. tap water is so robust. We take a short walk through Dante’s View before continuing on. It’s nearly dark now.

We reach the five-point junction at 8:52 and decide to go straight down the ridge shortcut. The ambient light is sufficient for our steps. I don’t recall if I have been down this route at night, but I failed to anticipate how tedious and precarious it is in the dark (I attempt to use my headlamp but I prefer the ambient light). A sea of lights covers our southern panorama. We safely negotiate the steep, slippery route and at the junction to Bird Sanctuary are rewarded with a reasonable path. Headlights stream up Western Canyon Drive. The observatory is bustling. Back at the bridge we retrace our steps past the Belin Forest and to the Charlie Turner Trailhead.

9:22 - End hike. The place is teeming with visitors. Back at the car we navigate to Sunset and Orange in Hollywood and cap off the evening at In-N-Out. It doesn’t get better than this!

Epilog - What an enjoyable hike. I never get tired of this amazing urban wild place with its endless possibilities. In the nine years I’ve been hiking in Griffith Park, I’ve not repeated a hike. With the vast web of trails, I’ve been able to cobble together various trail sections and destinations to create a different hike each time. This hike was similar to previous hikes but distinctly different. Jeff was great company and it’s always a privilege to host our out-of-down guests.

  See Hiking Griffith Park at Dan's Hiking Pages
 (includes links to my other blog posts for hiking in Griffith Park)

Relevant trail descriptions for this hike at Dan's Hiking Pages:

• Mt. Hollywood (1625') via Griffith Observatory and Charlie Turner Trailhead with options to Mt. Bell and more
• Brush Canyon to Mt. Bell (1582’) and more

PREVIOUS > Beacon Hill and Glendale Peak in Griffith Park - Feb. 15, 2016

Griffith Park Teahouse, Mt. Bell, Mt. Hollywood - July 24, 2015

On Tuesday morning, June 30, the dawn was met by a handcrafted wooden tea house which was constructed overnight on the northeast flank of Baby Bell (aka Taco Peak) in Griffith Park. The 80-square-foot Japanese style structure was built anonymously by local artisans using wood reclaimed from redwood trees burned in the devastating 2007 Griffith Park fire. Because the teahouse was erected illegally, the city is planning to remove it (one report says on or by July 27). Griffith Park is a historical landmark and it takes a long process for a piece of art to be approved.

This fascinating story grabbed my attention so I just had to visit the teahouse for myself. A Friday afternoon hike after work was the plan.

I leave my office in Echo Park and catch a Metro 2 at 4:00 heading west. I get off at Sunset and Western at 4:24 and begin my walk. I had looked at several bus options but a single bus ride to this location and a 0.8 walk to Griffith Park was the most efficient way to go. I arrive at Los Feliz Blvd. and Fern Dell Drive at 4:41. One more block up Fern Dell delivers me to the entrance to beautiful Ferndell gardens.

4:50 PM - Begin Hike. A causal walk through the exotic gardens of Ferndell is always a delight. Upon emerging from the gardens I walk north through the picnic area shaded by sycamores, oaks, and redwoods. I’ve had some good hikes begin from here. Park personnel have the northbound lane of Western Canyon Road blocked to traffic. I pick up a park map from the attendant and I’m glad to see that they revised it in 2014.

I arrive at the beginning of Western Canyon Trail at 5:17 and begin my climb. Soon I emerge from the shade. Thankfully it’s not too hot today. Mount Hollywood comes into view, regally standing at the north end of the canyon. The vegetation is thirsty. There is virtually nothing in bloom aside from some trees and shrubs such as elderberry, toyon, sugar bush, laurel sumac, fennel, California buckwheat, and a single bush sunflower. The wide dirt road gets pretty steep in its final section, but my pace is relaxed.

5:38 - Western Canyon Road. Lots of traffic. I ask an attendant directions to the teahouse, just to test him. I’m glad I knew the way because his directions would have gotten me lost for sure. I continue east on the steep dirt road to the Vermont Canyon bridge. Striking views open up to the east and southeast toward downtown. There is lots of parking activity down by the Greek Theatre and a band is warming up for a concert.

I cross the bridge and transition to the shortcut trail heading north to Mt. Hollywood. I virtually always take this route rather the long switchback on the road. I’m enjoying the expanding views and rugged surroundings. The vegetation alongside the trails is covered with dust from all the foot traffic with no hint that it rained last weekend. There is a fair amount of foot traffic on the trails today. The Hollywood sign stands silhouetted against the late afternoon sun. I reflect on my rewarding hike there a month ago. Mount Hollywood looms above me. I stop to photograph the tiny white flowers of dodder (witch’s hair).

6:07 - Six point junction south of Mt. Hollywood. I double back out onto the point for the panorama south. Normally I would climb straight up the ridge north to Mt. Hollywood, but because my destination is the teahouse, I turn right and take the dirt road northeast . I’m now appreciating the shade as I traverse along the east flank of Mt. Hollywood. As I arrive at Hogback Trail and Dante’s View, I’m treated with great views north and northeast. Downtown Glendale basks in the sun.

And across the canyon…eureka…the teahouse! I didn’t recall if I’d have direct line of sight from here, but I do and I’m excited. It’s in the sun, which I’m happy about. I had thought that it would be in the shadow of Baby Bell. Several tiny figures stand next to the covertly built structure, standing 0.3 mile from here as the crow flies. I turn left and continue my pilgrimage. My pace is earnest now with my eyes on the prize.

6:23 - Four-point Junction north of Mt. Hollywood. I turn right and walk due north along the watershed divide toward Baby Bell. My pace is brisk. At the junction I veer left unto the narrow rutted path that will skirt the east flank of Baby Bell. I’m eager.

6:29 - Griffith Park Teahouse. What a charming structure! About 10 people are here admiring the novelty and snapping pics. The dark brown timbers and nature wood panels of the open-air edifice are illuminated by the late afternoon sun. I endeavor to capture a thorough photographic record of the scene. The teahouse was beautifully constructed has the feel of quality craftsmanship. The old concrete foundation upon which it sits seems to fulfill its destiny. The location with its grand views is perfect for such a place of peace and well wishes. The inscription carved out of wood reads:

GRIFFITH PARK TEAHOUSE An empty and irresistible concrete foundation, fallen redwoods, local decomposed granite, bell, wishes Built from redwoods killed in the 2007 Griffith Park Fire, the teahouse is a love letter to Los Angeles and a quit perch for urban reflection. In homage to the fire, the timbers were lightly charred before assembly. What wishes will swirl up into the city? The Griffith Park Griffin is a rare puma/red-tailed hawk hybrid. GPTHP.001.2015; @gparkteahouse; #gparkteahouse

Guests to the teahouse have written hundreds of messages on small tiles of wood. Many hang on wooden pegs around the interior walls, and many are on the decomposed granite floor (I presume they have been blown off by the wind as several have blown off since I have been here). Upon making a wish, a guest seals it by ringing the red bell that hangs in a window. It has a pleasing tone.

I am usually a law and order kind of person, and know that clandestinely building things on public property sets bad precedent, however, I for one would like to see the charming teahouse remain.

After lingering sufficiently, I leave at 6:46 and head toward Mount Bell. How can I come this far without climbing my favorite peak in Griffith Park!? Eight minutes deliver me to the summit.

6:56 - Mount Bell (1582). I love this peak. I’ve climbed it more than any other peak in the park. I almost always have the summit to myself, but today I share it with two young men. The vast metropolis beyond the rugged parkland seems serene from this peaceful perch. Haze mutes the views. A cool breeze feels good. The peaks to the east are silhouetted by the setting sun. Ant-like people dot the dusty paths and peaks. Back from where I came, I can see the teahouse sitting on the northeast ridge of Baby Bell.

I leave the peak, retrace my steps, and arrive back at the teahouse at 7:10. It’s mostly in the shade now and other guests are visiting. I take a few more pictures and say good-bye to the Griffith Park Teahouse. I have a little remorse knowing it probably won’t be here for long. I trace my steps toward Mt. Hollywood. There’s still foot traffic coming and going in the setting sun. After the four-point junction I keep going straight and am rewarded with a splendid view south. The bull-dozed summit of iconic Mt. Hollywood calls me hither.

7:23 - Mount Hollywood (1625’). I love this peak too. There are always people here…eight right now. The human sprawl of Los Angeles and Hollywood fills the southern panorama. The grand observatory stands regally on its perch below. The sun is directly above Mt. Lee (the Hollywood sign) and not long till disappearing. There is a pleasant breeze. My plan is to catch the Metro 181 at Los Feliz and Vermont at 8:15, so I can’t linger long.

I leave the summit at 7:31 and head directly south down the steep use path. Down and down I go. I’m enjoying the golden light and picturesque scenery. The famed observatory basks in the fleeting rays of sun. I get shots of our solar orb setting behind Burbank Peak as I near the Vermont bridge. I cross the bridge and get a final chance to shoot the sunset from the Berlin Forest.

Griffith Observatory - I arrive at the Charlie Turner Trailhead at 8:57. Someplace along the way from Mt. Hollywood, I had realized that I have misestimated the timing, so I gave myself permission to move my bus time to 8:45. The observatory parking lot is jammed full. Long lines wait to view through telescopes on the lawn and roof. People line the railings and watch dusk turn to night over the expansive metropolis. I wander around the observatory and soak in the sights of this amazing place and reflect on the special times I’ve had here.

I leave the observatory at 8:23 and begin to descend East Observatory Trial. I soon realize I have again misestimated the timing. So I give myself permission to push my bus time to 9:15 and enjoy a leisurely stroll. I’m entertained by the concert at the Greek Theatre and the beauty of nightfall over the park and city. I meander down the trail and along Vermont Drive to catch my Metro bus at Los Feliz Blvd.

Epilog - What a fun adventure! I love Griffith Park. And in all my hikes there over the years, I’ve never repeated one. With the vast web of trails, I’ve been able to cobble together various trail sections and destinations to create a different hike each time. It was real a treat to visit the teahouse! It is a remarkable gift to the people of Los Angeles.

  See Hiking Griffith Park at Dan's Hiking Pages
  (includes links to my other blog posts for hiking in Griffith Park)

Relevant trail descriptions for this hike at Dan’s Hiking Pages:

• Ferndell to Griffith Observatory via West Observatory Trail
• Mt. Hollywood (1625') via Griffith Observatory with options to Mt. Bell and beyond
• Griffith Observatory via East Observatory Trail
• Brush Canyon to Mt. Bell (1582’) with options to Mt. Hollywood and more

 Relevant blog posts at Dan’s Hiking Blog:

• Western Cyn to Mt. Hollywood & Bell in Griffith - Sept. 12, 2013
• Observatory to Mt. Hollywood & Bell in Griffith - Sept. 19, 2013
• Mt. Hollywood, Mt. Bell Hike - 10-10-10

NEXT > Beacon Hill and Glendale Peak in Griffith Park - Feb. 15, 2016
PREVIOUS > Burbank Peak, Cahuenga Peak, and Mt. Lee - June 24, 2015