Joshua Tree - Indian Cove to Mount Mel - January 4, 2015

Having experienced the amazing Joshua Tree National Park for the first time over the holidays, I had time for one more short hike before heading home. I’ve now hiked to an oasis and climbed a 5,000-foot peak. This time I’ve found a peak on the Sierra Club Lower Peaks list that seemed ideal. It’s only about 2 miles round trip with 600 feet in elevation gain, and the trailhead at Indian Cove is close to where I was staying. Mount Mel (3814’) is not in the park literature or in my two new books, so I turned to some trip reports on Peakbagger.  |  The route is primarily cross country, and after I studied the topo and Google Earth, I was ready to go.

On Hwy 62 (29 Palms Hwy) about half way between Joshua Tree and Twentynine Palms, I turn south on Indian Cove Road. In about a mile I pull into the ranger station to see if there is anything helpful. The ranger was out but I picked up a campground map. Back on the road I continue south for another couple miles (past the junction for the group campground) to the campground. At the intersection, I turn right (west, toward campsites 40-101) and navigate my way to the trailhead for Indian Cove Nature Trail. There are just two cars here, which is a big difference from my last two hikes. My route will follow the first portion of the nature trail. I can see cone-shaped Mount Mel due west. A split-rail fence and an interruptive sign mark the beginning of the nature trail.

11:46 - Begin hike heading west on the nature trail. It’s a brisk 51 degrees but I’m comfortable in my t-shirt. I snap pics of the interpretive signs along the way. At about 0.15 mile, the trail drops into a wash and begins to curve back to the north and east. At this point (just past the packrat sign), my route veers left, leaves the nature trail, and begins to head west in the broad wash. There are many footprints in the soft sand. I don’t have line of sight to Mount Mel from here as it is now hidden behind an outcropping. The jumbles of huge rocks are surreal. The wash gets narrower and soon I regain sight of my peak. It kind of looks like a giant candy kiss covered with nuts.

12:14 - I reach a drainage that runs north separating Mount Mel from the huge jumble of boulders to its east. I’m really enjoying the rugged scenery and solitude. My first target is the saddle on the south flank of Mount Mel. The amount of footprints in the sand has thinned out considerably, but route finding is pretty easy. The massive pile of rocks called Mount Mel begins to look daunting.

12:26 - Saddle. Ok, that was the easy part…now for a crazy climb. I pause to study the mountainside and look for the best line. I’m feeling intimidated by the sheer mass of huge boulders. I run the timing in my mind: I have to be back at the house by 2:00, which means back to the trailhead by 1:45, which means climb this peak and back to this saddle by 1:15, which means I have about 45 minutes to climb up and down this monster. Is that doable? Is it safe? In my planning, I had grossly underestimated the demands of this ascent. I decide to at least test it.

I follow a sandy path for about 50 yards to the start my first set of boulders. I successfully conquer the first big obstacle to find me staring at the next one. And it does not look safe. Wow, this could take a while. And these boulders look smooth from a distance, but their surface is incredibly course ...very different from the rocks in my San Gabriels. I have some knit gloves in my pack to keep my hands warm, but I’m not outfitted with suitable groves for this challenge.

I stand on a massive boulder and must make a decision. I break out singing the chorus from Kenny Rogers, “You gotta know when to hold ‘em, know when to fold ‘em, know when to walk away, know when to run.” I hate failing to summit, but good judgment says it’s time to walk away. Bagging this peak will have to wait for another day. My feelings are mixed. I feel good about my decision to abort the ascent, but also feel sad. Rarely do I fail to complete a hiking objective. But as a solo hiker, I always weigh the risks and use wisdom to keep from triggering a search and rescue operation. And I told the family I’d be home by 2:00, so I need to keep my word.

I climb back down to the saddle and decide to explore west a little. I descend the draw a couple hundred yards to the edge of the canyon along the west flank of Mount Mel. I can see a couple portions of Boy Scout Trail far below. In my pre-hike research, I saw a trip report on Peakbagger that shows a GPS track connecting this point with Boy Scout Trail. I don’t see an obvious route but the terrain looks possible to navigate, howbeit, rough, with about 300 feet in elevation change. Hoof prints and scat are present, but I don’t know if they are from deer or bighorn sheep. Looking at the west flank of Mel, it seems to be as challenging as the south side from the saddle.

I arrive back at the saddle at 1:05 and begin my descent. For the most part I retrace my steps but in some spots I improve my route. I Iook back over my shoulder a few times at the boulder pile called Mount Mel. I reflect on the bizarre and amazing features of this desert landscape. In some ways it seems peaceful and welcoming. But in reality, behind its serene façade is a hostile and treacherous environment with little forgiveness and mercy toward its human visitors. Virtually every plant is armed to inflict pain. Ragged rocks, blistering sun, deceiving distances, poisonous snakes, blinding sandstorms, stinging ants, and the absence of water and cell reception. Oh the drama of the desert! But oh beauty!



Walking down the broad wash, I climb the steep bank on the right to get a better perspective. I follow the route down and arrive at the nature trail in the wash at 1:35 and veer left to continue along the trail. I enjoy the signs and learn about desert willow, desert almond, lizards, and bighorn sheep. I leave the trail and walk across the desert back to my car.

1:45 - End hike. It’s 56 degrees and there are no cars in the lot.

Epilog - What a pleasant hike to conclude my first set of adventures in Joshua Tree National Park. And it was nice having solitude compared to the other two hikes amidst a throng of park guests. I was treated to beautiful weather, stunning landscape, fascinating plants, and the fun of some cross-country travel. The summit of Mount Mel eluded me today, but I am growing to respect the unique challenges of desert hiking. I am eager to return.

  See Joshua Tree hikes at Dan's Hiking Pages

NEXT > Joshua Tree - Warren Point & Panorama Loop - April 4, 2015
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Jones Peak and Hastings Peak - December 31, 2014

See Jones Peak Hike Description at Dan's Hiking Pages

Jones Peak holds a special place and for me. It was the first summit I climbed in the San Gabriel Mountains. Every day in my drive to and from work on the 1-210 Foothill Freeway, I could see the trail zig zagging up the mountain to the pointed peak towering over Sierra Madre. So on April 15, 1995, my son and I climbed the 3.3 miles to the top of 3375-foot Jones Peak. Ten days later I bought John Robinson’s Trail of the Angeles and so started my love for hiking in the San Gabriels. As I start my twentieth year of hiking the Angeles, it’s fitting to revisit Jones Peak. And I can add Hastings Peak to it and be able to check off another summit from the Sierra Club Lower Peaks list to end the year. The hike is about 9 miles round trip with 3,000 feet in elevation gain.

I leave the house at 11:20, which is unusually late for me to go hiking. But the morning was cold and I was having a hard time motivating myself to get going. I navigate my way to Bailey Canyon Park in Sierra Madre. There are about 10 cars in the parking lot. The air is brisk but I figure I’ll be fine in my t-shirt once I get going.

11:50 - Begin Hike. I follow the paved service road past the flood control basin and begin my walk into nature. It’s been six years since I’ve hiked to Jones Peak and I’m a little excited. Recent rain has brought life to plants and grass. I love the freshness from yesterday’s rain. A remnant or golden leaves hang onto the sycamores as they go dormant for the winter (yes, SoCal has seasons!). In five minutes I pass the bridge to Live Oak Nature Trail, and in another four minutes pass the junction to Bailey Canyon Falls.

Now I begin the earnest climb. The tiny white flowers of wild cucumber are about the only thing in bloom. Soon views begin to open up of the San Gabriel Valley and beyond. Haze mutes the horizon. To the north up canyon, Hastings Peak stands regally inviting me to climb it. I love the aroma of the chaparral. Lots of switchbacks keep me walking in all directions. Trail volunteers have been busy building steps and retaining fences. The warm sun feels good. As always on this trail, I encounter other hikers coming and going, but it doesn’t feel crowded.

12:24 - MacCloud Saddle, 1.0 mile from the start. The canyon walls get steeper and more rugged. Sugar bush sports its pink bud clusters. I’m really enjoying the beauty of the canyon. A blimp floats above Pasadena. Being December 31, it does not escape me that thousands of Rose Parade viewers are heading to Pasadena to find their spots along Colorado Boulevard. I’ve done that many times with family and friends over the years. But tonight I’ll enjoy a warm bed and tomorrow I’ll watch the parade on TV while blogging about my hiking adventures.

1:09 - Cabin foundation, 2.2 miles from the start. I sit on the stone wall and have a snack. Since the last time I was here, a bronze plaque has been mounted on the wall. It reads, “George’s Cabin” and I’m amused by the story. I’ll let you hike here to read it for yourself. Another man arrives to check out the foundations. Strangely, he is not familiar with the well-known story alluded to on the plaque and the spoof is lost to him.

I leave the foundation at 1:22 and continue climbing. The trail gets steeper in this section and I’m getting a good workout. I enjoy the richly textured chaparral, fresh air, and blue skies. There virtually no shade on the trail and the warm sun is welcome on this brisk winter day (this trail can be punishing in full sun of summer…I know!). Through the distant haze, I can see the sun glistening off the Pacific Ocean. As the trail bends around the backside of Jones Peak, I encounter a small patch of snow in the cold shade (yes, it’s winter in SoCal!).

2:10 - Jones saddle, nearly 3.3 miles from the start. I now have a view east toward snow-covered Ontario Peak. It’s cold in the shade and I’m eager to climb the steep pitch south to the summit and warm sunshine. Gosh, this is steep.

2:16 - Jones Peak (3375’), 3.3 miles from the start. It’s sunny but a breeze is chilling. I put on my long-sleeved shirt. A couple other guys are here. The one guy who I met at the foundation is just leaving. I enjoy chatting with Jonas, who is a volunteer with the distinguished Sierra Madre Search and Rescue. Jonas is carrying a full pack with equipment; today is a condition hike for him, just to stay in shape. I always so appreciate the huge sacrifice these dedicated volunteers make. I hope and pray I never need their service.



Jonas leaves the peak heading south down firebreak. As I’m snapping pictures, the wind kicks up and I’m amazed how quickly the weather goes from comfortable to frigid. Man it’s cold! I’m first impulse is to hightail it down the mountain and skip Hastings Peak. I leave the summit at 2:44 and arrive at the saddle in four minutes. Amazingly, it’s not cold anymore! I quickly get a change of heart and decided to continue. After a sandwich and putting on my gloves, I proceed north climbing the steep trail. The warm sun feels good and there is little wind.

3:01 - Hastings Ridge junction. To the right is the crossover trail descending north into Little Santa Anita Canyon to intersect Mount Wilson Trail. I turn left and head west up the board ridge. It’s a good path with great views. Nearby Mount Harvard and Mount Wilson dominate the northwest skyline. Ahead, Hastings Peak stands prominently on this ridgeline. I have striking views south into Bailey Canyon and ponder how high I’ve climbed.

3:14 - Highpoint 3724. I’ve been here once before on a hot summer day in July 2004 coming up from Little Santa Anita. On that hike was the first I heard about Hasting Peak, having seen it mentioned on the sign at the junction. I didn’t know if it was this peak or the next one up the ridge (and it didn’t show on the map), so I stopped here and went back because the hike was getting long on hot. So Hastings Peak has been on my hit list for 10 years.

I continue west along the undulating ridge enjoying the views and feeling excitement about bagging a listed peak to end the year. I also contemplate the reality that it will be dark before I complete this hike…oh no, I just remembered that Bailey Canyon Park closes at sunset…will my car be locked in?! Dang! Oh well, I guess I’ll face that situation later. For now, I continue to the peak. At 3:25 I reach the base of the final pitch to the summit. It’s quite steep now. I encounter more small patches of snow.

3:34 - Hastings Peak (4000+’) - I’m here! Great 360 panorama. At least 25 named peaks in the San Gabriels can be seen from here on the northern panorama. The San Gabriel Valley sprawls out in the southern panorama, muted by haze. The survey maker indicates that it was placed in 1940. I’d love to sit up here for an hour in more clear weather on a warmer day just soaking in the views. But it’s cold and getting dark soon so my visit is brief. I leave the peak at 3:46.

I retrace my steps down the ridge at a good clip. The sun feels good. I reach highpoint 3724 at 4:05, the junction at 4:15, and Jones saddle at 4:22. I move my headlamp from the pack to my pocket. The soon-setting sun casts a golden glow on the surrounding chaparral. As I descend lower into the canyon and the sun drops lower to the horizon, I’m hoping to have line of sight to see the last sunset of 2014. At 4:54 I get my last shot of the sunset. I pass the cabin foundation at 5:02. The city beyond the v-shaped canyon is turning into a blanket of twinkling lights. I try to call the Sierra Madre PD to let them know my car is in the parking lot at Bailey Canyon Park and to see if I can keep it from getting locked in, but I’m not getting reception.

I resist using my headlamp for as long as I can since I prefer ambient light. As I’m negotiating a switchback my peripheral vision spots what appears to be a small back animal near my feet. It startles me, then I realize it is my shadow being cast by the moon. At 5:21 I finally get my call through to the police dispatcher and she says she’ll alert the officer on patrol. I finally switch on my headlamp on at 5:39. Even with light, walking in the dark is slow. I’m enjoying the beauty of nightfall. Temperature wise, I’m still comfortable without my third layer.

6:17 - End hike. I am elated that the parking lot gate has not been closed and there is no ticket on my car. It’s 44 degrees.

Epilog - What an enjoyable hike to end the year! Superb trail, rich chaparral, freshness after the rain, warm sun, blue sky, splendid views, a familiar peak and new peak, and great exercise. What a blessing to live next to such amazing mountain range and be able to hike.

See Jones Peak Hike Description at Dan's Hiking Pages

See Plants in Bailey and Rubio Canyons, Dan's Hiking Blog
    - March 27, 2011